Welcome to the official blog site of Barcelona Birding Point, a travel agency specialised in birding & wildwatching tours. Here you will find trip reports, detailed information about some of our tours, tips on conservation and more. By Carles Oliver
All images in this trip report by tour leader Carles Oliver unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.
Overview: 10th Pyrenees Winter Break issue. This winter in the Pyrenees has been specially unnormal. The winter started normally, with the first snowfall happening in early November. Soon, the trend changed and we faced several weeks without any snowfall and the high temperatures melted the few snow left. With temperatures ranking 25ºC in January, some high mountain specialties changed their normal routines, especially affected were Snow Finches and Citril Finches, but also Alpine Choughs. This anormal situation, made the tour a bit harder than usual. Despite all of this, we got excellent views in the high mountain specialties and many of the steppe birds, with stunning views on both Wallcreeper and Dupont’s Lark, and 8+ Lammergeiers & 5+ Cinereous Vultures seen.
Day 1. After gathering all the tour participants from their accommodations around the city and enjoy tea & coffee stop we headed to the first birding stop of the tour. During the next hour, we walked around a mosaic landscape with some large trees, bushland and crops.
Here we were delighted to see the first Iberian Green Woodpeckers of the trip, quite active in the early morning. The morning was a bit cloudy and, once again, warm for what we can expect in Barcelona in early February. Small flocks of Common Chaffinches were getting out of the fields, and along with them we saw European Serinsand Eurasian Tree Sparrows. Our walk around had a nice start, with a showy Lesser Spotted Woodpecker was calling and drumming from the top of the canopies, and we had really good looks on it for almost five minutes. In this same spot we also got Iberian Green Woodpeckers and a Ring-necked Parakeet exploring some nesting holes. Both Great & Blue Tits were active in the area, and a juvenile Peregrine Falcon did a couple of fast flights in the area, hoping to catch one of the several small birds moving. Other interesting birds here included Eurasian Hoopoe, Eurasian Jay and Common Pheasant. 3 Rock Buntings flew out from the bushes, but unfortunately none of the tour participants had a proper view on them
From the lovely plain in the Llobregat Delta we drove to a small garden around Barcelona where a White-throated Sparrow had been seen. We waited for almost one hour but, unfortunately, the Sparrow didn’t show for us. Still, a nice flock of Red-billed Leiothrix was a great entertainment for us, with some Eurasian Blackcaps and Coal Tits also showing well.
After a short stop for coffees and logistics, we drove up to the hills, with the next stop in the top of the one of the highest mountains between Barcelona and the Pyrenees. Here we had the longest walk of the trip, aiming to connect with the small population of Alpine Accentorsliving there. Fortunately we didn’t have to walk a lot before a lovely flock of at least 12 Alpine Accentors came to us to offer the group wonderful and very long views, with some of the birds performing right in front of us for several minutes! It was midday and in this small peak, normally covered with snow in early February, the sensation was of being late September! We had a comfortable 15ºC when being at 1700m above the sea level! Even in such a conditions, it was very surprising to find a femaleHen Harrier hunting in the slopes of the mountains, and moreover, to see 3 Dartford Warblers singing and chasing each other in the tall vegetation. This is only a summer visitor to this habitat, normally covered by snow. Dartford Warblers spend the winter at lower altitudes, waiting for the snow to melt and temperatures to arise up (this is normally happening by late March or early April).
From here we covered the short distance of driving to the first hillsides of the Pyrenees where, even before arriving to the planned stop, we had to do a stop in one of its minor roads, that appeared covered by hundreds of Finches. Here we got the first excellent views on Common Crossbill, with some superb males singing from the top of the Mountain Pines. Hundreds of Eurasian Siskins were calling and singing here, probably moving North to their nesting grounds in Northern Europe. Eurasian Goldfinch, Coal & Crested Tits, Goldcrestand Mistle Thrushwere all seen here, some of them providing great looks. At least 2 Citril Finches were noted inside this massive flock of birds, but they flew over almost unnoticed and I fell to put anyone in the group on the Finches, that fastly disappeared in the forest.
The afternoon was well advanced when we had our last stop of the day. This time to have some time in a lovely subboreal forest. Here, we were again surrounded by Common Crossbills and Siskins and only one minute after leaving the van we had a Black Woodpeckercalling not far away. It took us only a pair of minutes to contact with the bird, that was active with a variety of calls to finally stop in a large, dead trunk. There we enjoyed long views as the bird was first calling and then preening before going away. We still had some more time in this lovely habitat, but it didn’t produce anything else out of a pair of showy Great Spotted Woodpeckersand 1 Eurasian Nuthatch.
Close up on Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo) to start the tour.Red-billed Leiothrix (Leiothrix lutea) has a small population in the forests around Barcelona.Alpine Accentor (Prunella collaris) was worth every step un the hill!Common Crosbill (Loxia curvirostra) has been a common sight along this winter in the Pyrenees.We enjoyed rather distant but long views on Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius).
Day 2. After enjoying our breakfast in our quiet accommodation in La Cerdanya valley, we spent the next couple of hours exploring the valley immediately beside. Here, a number of selected stops produced a good list of birds that included large numbers of Mistle Thrushes and Redwings with some Fieldfares but also really good views on Short-toed Treecreeper, Common Crossbills, Crested Tit and, especially, gorgeous looks on Rock Buntings that seemed very active and ready to start the nesting season.
From here, we drove inside Andorra. All the main mountain passes in this area of Catalonia had no snow at the moment, and our only hope to find Snow Finches was to go inside Andorra and do some stops along a mountain pass reaching 2500 metres above the sea level and sky resort located nearby. Once there, we saw that the amount of snow was also really thin, and the sunny weather reduced our chances to connect with the Finches even thinner. Still, we enjoyed very lovely views on Alpine Choughs as they were feeding around the sky resort but also acting almost as Wallcreepers in the buildings around!
Crossing Andorra, we headed South towards the most impressive spot for large raptors in the Pyrenees. Even if the intense Andorran traffic made us go slowly, we arrived to the hillsides around Isona with the sun well high in the sky. Moreover, in our way out of Andorra we got excellent views on White-throated Dippers.
The rest of the afternoon we drove along a pair of tracks, with several stops to enjoy the many birds of prey in the sky. After three hours, a conservative count showed out 7 Lammergeiers, hundreds of Eurasian Griffons and 12 Cinereous Vultures. We got several excellent views, with adult Lammergeiers passing only tens of metres away from the van; Lammergeierscircling along with Cinereous Vultures; or a flock of 15 Griffonsand 4 Lammergeiers all circling together to name some of most celebrated sights. Due to the multiple stops to enjoy the several raptors in the sky, we arrived to our accommodation a bit later than expected, but with some unforgettable memories!
Rock Bunting (Emberiza cia) singing his heart out for us.Alpine Chough (Phyrrocorax graculus) Alpine Chough close up in our visit in Andorra.Lammergeier (Gypaetos barbatus), one of the several enjoyed.A pair of Lammergeiers almost touching wings. Cinereous Vulture (Aegypius monachus) has a small but healthy population in the Pyrenees.
Day 3. After breakfast, we covered the short distance from Lleida to the first gorges in the Pyrenees. Once there, we spent a couple of hours enjoying the rocky outcrops. Blue Rock Thrush had a short appearance, but Firecrests and Goldcrest gave us long views. In the cliffs, Griffons Vultures were nesting along with Rock Sparrows. In the river along the gorge, Dippers were moving up and down along with Grey Wagtails. Other birds here included Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Cirl Buntings and Sardinian Warbler.
But the main reason to come was another, and a really important one. To be fair, the Wallcreeper overwintering in the gorge didn’t take long to appear, but we had to wait a bit before everybody in the group could connect with it. Still, we were really lucky, and a Wallcreeperappeared at its typical place a bit after 10:00 in the morning. The bird was half way up in the cliff, and not very showy. We had to wait for 5 minutes before the bird, suddenly, decided to come down by the tarmac! The next 10 minutes were some of the most intense in our Pyrenean outings this winter, with extremely close views on this Wallcreeper, while the bird was moving really low along the gorge. At times, we had ti sensation of be able even of touching the bird!
Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria) at close range. Image by Mark Dowie.Another great shot on Wallcreeper. Please note the delicate design of the undertail coverts. Image by Mark Dowie.
After enjoying such a wonderful views on the one of the main specialties living in the mountains we drove down to the plains. There, large flocks of European Golden Plovers and Northern Lapwings were waiting for us. We have our lunch stop by a small pond, where we had Northern Shovelers, Common Pochards, Little Grebes, Eurasian Coots & Teals, 2 Green Sandpipers but also large flocks of White Storks in the move from their roosting places around Lleida. The area was also good for small birds and European Stonechat, Meadow Pipit, Eurasian Skylark, Crested Lark, Chiffchaff, Linnet, Reed Bunting and Eurasian Tree Sparrow were noted.
After lunch we changed to a second pond, and our visit was granted with nice views on 7 Ferruginous Ducks, a very scarce bird in Catalonia!
Driving East, we arrived to an area with a very different landscape. Here, small but cleverly managed fields still allow a good density of Little Bustards. This species, formerly fairly common in Iberia, had become almost a scarcity, and its winter flocks have been severely decimated. A first stop was done to try to connect with a pair of Black-winged Kites nesting in the area, but we only got a small flock of Woodlarks, several Corn Buntings and multiple views on Red Kite & Marsh Harrier. A bit further, 4 Little Bustards were seen by the road, and we got good views from the van to don’t disturb the birds.
The last stop of the day was deserved to the desert-like ambients South of Lleida, where we had a short walk to enjoy the first Thekla’s Larks of the trip along with lovely flocks of Red-billed Choughs, Spotless Starlings, Rock Sparrows and a Black Wheatear that refused to show for the group! It was already quite late, but we decided to have a very last stop, and our effort was very worth. We still had to get out of the van when we listened and Eurasian Eagle Owl calling from somewhere in the valley. After a fast scanning, we decided to go for a slow short walk, and after a few metres Mark got the bird singing from a dead branch up in the hillside. During the few minutes, we got amazing scope views on the bird while some Redwings were attending their roosting site. A superb way to end another very good day!
Part of the flock of Ferruginous Ducks (Aythya nyroca) seen around Lleida.Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax) female feeding.Eagle Owl calling from its perch. Image by Mark Dowie.
Day 4. After a sunny start of the trip, this was a grey and rainy day. A difficult weather to search for the specialties living in the steppes. Still, we went to explore the endless plains in central Monegros. A first stop in a small salty lagoon produced the only Kentish Plover of the trip along with Common Shelducks and Black-headed Gulls. From here, we got in the plains, but the muddy tracks made difficult for us to arrive to some locations. Still, we were lucky enough to contact with 2 nice Black-bellied Sandgrouses that provided flying views. 1 Little Owl was also a nice sight while flocks of Calandra & Skylarks were flying over the fields. After a couple of hours checking around the rain became heavier, and we decided to go for a service stop. It was a fortunate choice since the sky cleared right when we were leaving the coffee shop.
Back to the plains, we managed to arrive to a nice spot and soon we found a nice of 11 Pin-tailed Sandgrouses that stayed on a field for us for about 20 minutes. Here we had nice scope views with some good photo and video chances. Several Calandra & Crested Larks were singing here, and as the sun became stronger, the first Mediterranean Short-toed Larks (aka Lesser Short-toed Larks) of the trip were noted. From here we moved into a different section of the plains, and we were lucky to find a nice flock of 31 Common Cranes feeding on the ground at close range, and a closer flock of Eurasian Griffons on the ground, waiting for the weather to improve. Here we also got a nice male Hen Harrier flying over the large fields, and 2 extra Little Owls! But unfortunately the rain started again, even heavier than before and we decided to move away, trying to put some distance from the mud and the rain.
But when we arrive to our new accommodation, the rain was also there for us, and we decided to end the day after enjoying a distant view on a new Little Owl.
Pin-tailed Sandgrouses (Pterocles alchata) feeding under the rain.
Day 5. After enjoying breakfast, we headed out to the large steppes immediatly South of Zaragoza. This is a wonderful are to enjoy steppe birds, with multiple places where to go and try to find the different specialties living in the region. After the generous rain of the previous day, we woke up in a sunny day with only some clouds.
We started driving in the minor tracks crossing the steppes and soon got 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses in a farming area. Beyond, both Calandra and Mediterranean Short-toed Larks started singing, offering both really good looks. It didn’t take long before we got a first Dupont’s Lark singing. It looked like far away, but then a second bird started singing a bit closer. Some Short-toed Larks were around, feeding and providing some photo opportunities. The wind started to pick up, but both Dupont’s Larks were still singing. We put out the scopes, trying to see them in the ocean of grass in front of us, but we couldn’t contact with the bird..
After 40 minutes of scan we decided to move away and try a different spot. By that time the wind was already strong. A new Lesser Short-toed Lark in good light was welcome by the photographers in the group, but suddenly a second bird appeared right behind the Short-toed Lark. A Dupont’s Lark sitting in the top of a small bush only 10 metres away from us!! Soon we were all having the bird and celebrating our luck.
Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (Alaudala rufescens). Lovely views on a singing Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti) after a couple of hours of waiting! Image by tour leader Carles OliverThekla’s Lark (Galerida theklae) close up to end our exploration of the steppes.
Leaving the steppes, we still had a pair of Red-billed Choughs displaying around and 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouses plus a pair of superb Golden Eagles in the highway. But certainly the wind had picked up in the last minutes. We started the final transfer to Barcelona, having a stop in a lovely lagoon with a wonderful reedbed. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived to the lagoon the wind was so strong that it was almost not possible to stand up, and we had to search refuge in a blind and even inside the van to enjoy our packed lunches. Here, we only got Gadwalls and Great Crested Grebes and the very strong wind made no possible to contact with any passerine living in the reeds.
Despite the strong wind, we still had something to add to our list and a small detour to explore a sheltered gorge produced a nice male Black Wheatear in the top of a small cliff, providing good views to all the members of the group. This very last minute sight was really appreciated, since the first contact with this species, a couple of days before, was poor and not everyone in the group actually so the bird.
After this short stop, we just transferred back to Barcelona to end our tour around the airport by mid afternoon.
Totes les imatges en aquesta crònica de viatge són obra d’en Joan Barat a menys no s’especifiqui el contrari. Tots els drets estan reservat / All images in this trip report by tour participant Joan Barat unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.
Resum: Segon tour ornitològic a la província del Western Cape, amb tota la experiència acumulada del nostre primer tour. En aquesta ocasió cal destacar una molt bona diversitat d’Anàtides i d’altres espècies de zones humida. Sembla que la relativa sequera que hi havia a la zona va fer que moltes petites zones humides fossin seques, concentrant les aus en les grans zones humides costaneres. La sortida pelàgica, una experiència gairebé única, va proporcionar una llista més que destacable i sempre és un moment excitant el passar a tocar del Cap de Bona Esparança escortat per estols de pingüins africans i mascarells del Cap per adentrar-se a l’Oceà, a on esperen els albatros i els petrells gegants…
A terra, el tour va aconseguir observacions fantàstiques d’espècies tant destacables com arpella negra o sisó del Cap, però els moments viscuts a tocar d’una parella de saltarroques del Cap van ser, potser, els més intensos. Només els que han provat de trobar aquests esquerps animals saben de la dificultat de connectar amb aquesta espècie quasi llegendària…
Sud-àfrica és la regió d’Àfrica amb major nombre d’espècies endèmiques en part per l’exclusivitat dels hàbitats que allà es troben, ambients àrids, els fynbos i karoo , tots ells els varen poder visitar, observant la majoria d’especialitats a més en l’època més espectacular amb el màxim de floració per a moltes espècies vegetals, tot i no ser un any especialment humit. Això encara es manifesta més amb les diverses visites als majestuosos parcs botànics de la zona on hi ha una gran diversitat d’espècies d’ocells.
El resultat ens reafirma en que el Western Cape és un lloc de visita obligada en aquestes dates per qualsevol ornitòleg interessat en l’ornitofauna africana i les aus pelàgiques.
Sisó negre meridional / Southern Black Korhaan (Afrotis afra)
Abstract: Second tour to Cape Town, with all the experience acquired from the first tour. This tour enjoyed a wonderful weather all the week long, and very good densities of waterfowl. The province was in the middle of a short drought, and this favoured the ducks and other waterfowl to concentrate along the major coastal wetlands. The offshore, an unique experience, ended with a great list. It is always a formidable moment to overpass the Good Hope Cape escorted by dozens of African Penguins, Cormorants different species and Cape Gannets, while in the open Ocean a good array of Albatrosses and Giant Petrels are awaiting..
On land, our group enjoyed great views on 40+ endemics or near-endemics, being especially great those on Southern Black Korhaan, Blue Crane, Cape Siskin, Black Harrier, Agulhas Long-billed Lark, the striking Orange-breasted Sunbird, the magnificent Cape Sugarbird ,and especially ,the enigmatic and often difficult to find Cape Rockjumper.
Once more, we were delighted by the blossom in Western Cape. Here, a gorgeous variety of unique flora was waiting for us. Both fynbos (mediterranean style scrubland) and karoo (desert-like areas) were full of wonderful proteas and aloes! An spectacle by its own not only in the wild, but also in the many and superb Botanical Gardens around.
Dia 1. El grup surt des de l’aeroport de Barcelona i, després d’una escala a Àmsterdam, arribem a Ciutat del Cap poc abans de mitjanit. Al poc temps d’aterrar ens confirmen que la sortida pelàgica, prevista per l’endemà al matí, s’ajorna en previsió de forts vents i onatge sever. No és una eventualitat estranya, tenint el compte la meteorologia complexe de la zona. Naturalment, teníem un plà alternatiu.
Dia 2. Al matí següent, després d’un bon esmorzar, aprofitem per fer una primera passejada a l’entorn de l’hotel on veiem les primeres especialitat com el pardal del Cap, la cuereta del Cap i zosterop del Cap .
Una petita zona humida propera acull grups familiars de fotges banyudes i colònies actives de teixidors social del Cap i emmascarat . Una petita illa es converteix es zona de descans pels petits corbs marins africans, alhora que centenars de gavines de Harlaub, de cap-gris i gavià de Liechstentein . Sortejant el tranquil trànsit de Ciutat del Cap, arribem a un complexe d’aiguamolls al Sud de la ciutat on la densitat i diversitat d’ànecs és impressionant. Hi han centenars de xarxets del Cap , amb Ànec cullerot sud-africà però també ànecs bec-groc, bec-vermell i el més escàs Xibec bru. Als pals dins l’aigua descansen grups de Xatrac reial bec-groc . També hi han grans estols de Flamencs amb més d’una quarantena de Flamencs menuts. Un escanejat dels grups d’ànecs ens permet trobar un Ànec arborí bicolor, una espècie rara a Ciutat del Cap que sembla que enguany ha tingut una inusual irrupció en aquest espai.
Encara sense deixar la ciutat, canviem dràsticament d’hàbitat i visitem el Jardí Botànic de Kirstenbosch, impressionant espai amb una bona representació de les comunitats d’ocells presents als Fynbos. Per la gespa ens sorprenen grups familiars de Francolí del Cap acompanyats de Merla olivàcia i Còssifa del Cap .
Fins a 5 espècies de suimangues aprofiten el gran nombre de flors, acompanyats de Llèpols del Cap . Una parella de Duc africà nidifica en un zona pública i alhora que la femella esta covant els ous de la nova niuada, els joves de l’anterior posta estan en plena emancipació. Acabem la jornada gaudint de l’únic Colom ull groc del viatge.
Cape Teals & Cape Shovelers. Dues espècies força comunes a la província del Western Cape.Xibec bru / Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma), una de les espècies més elegants dins del gènere Aythya.La fotxa banyuda / Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata), una espècie habitual a Ciutat del Cap.Flamenc nan / Lesser Flamingo (Phoeniconaias minor) en volFredeguga armada / Blacksmith Lapwing (Vanellus armata)Batis del Cap / Cape Batis (Batis capensis)Duc africà / Spotted Eagle Owl (Bubo africanus), a common species around the city.Zosterops del Cap / Cape White-eye (Zosterops virens)Botxí fiscal meridional / Southern Fiscal (Lanius collaris) Suimange d’acer / Southern Double-collared Sunbird (Cynniris chalybeus) Còssifa del Cap / Cape Robin Chat (Cossipha caffra)
Dia 3. Confirmat que podrem fer un dels millors moments del tour, la sortida pelàgica!! Però comencem amb un ensurt ja que el nostres hotel està encerclat per la marató de Cape Town que es celebra aquell mateix dia. Afortunadament vàrem sortir amb molta antelació i finalment vàrem trobar la sortida cap al sud. Entre tant de temps d’espera vam detectar un pinsà comú, espècie introduïda pels britànics. Desprès de les corresponents explicacions pugem a la barca, al propi port es veuen 3 espècies de corbs marins: el corb marí del Cap, el coronat i el gorja blanc, compartint espai amb garses de mar negres africanes. Abans de sortir d’una badia amb la mar ben plana, passem prop de roques on es veuen ossos marins Afro-australians i una petita colònia de corbs marins d’ull groc. A l’aigua hi ha petits grups de pingüins del Cap pescant activament. Una vegada passat l’espectacular Cap de Bona Esperança veiem barques locals pescant barracudes i les primeres aus pelàgiques, en concret ràpides baldrigues de barbeta blanca, estols d’adults de mascarells del Cap i un petit estol de gavinetes de cua-forcada. Arribats a mar obert no es fa esperar el 1er albatros, en concret un parell d’albatros tímids. També ens acompanyen paràsits subantàrtics intentant piratejar els grups de gavines i xatracs.
A partir d’aquí l’objectiu es intentar detectar els gran vaixells pesquers que treballen per la zona, on estols de centenars d’aus marines aprofiten els descart de la pesquera. La presencia de grups d’Albatros, Baldrigues, petrells…ens confirmen que ens estem apropant a un d’ells. Un bon nombre de baldrigues grises i cap-negres acompanyen la barca a curta distancia. També comencen a aparèixer els 1ers ocells de tempesta de Wilson i Europeus. Als Albatros tímids se li sumen un bon nombre d’albatros cellanegre, bec-groc Atlantic i del Pacífic. Els Petrells gegants, tant el del Nord com el del Sud fan varies incursions en els estols d’aus, però sens dubte un dels ocells més espectaculars de la sortida van ser els diversos petrell del Cap.
Bank & Cape Cormorants (PhalacrocoraxPetrell del Cap / Cape Petrel Baldriga capnegre / Great Shearwater (Puffinus gravis)Mascarell del Cap / Cape Gannet (Morus capensis)Baldriga cendrosa / Sooty Shearwater (Puffinus griseus)Albatros tímid / Shy Albatross (Thalassarche cauta). Imatge del tour líder Sergi Sales.White-chinned Petrel
Desprès de menjar uns excel·lents sandvitxos i fer les darreres fotografies, tornem cap a port, amb la sorpresa final del salt d’una Iubarta a curtíssima distancia de l’embarcació. Una vegada desembarcats una confiada Llúdriga del Cap fa les delícies dels observadors.
Aprofitem la curta distancia per visitar la colònia de Pingüins on també trobem els 1ers ocells ratolins comuns, prinia del Karoo i suimanga d’acer. La darrera aturada d’aquest tant excitant dia la fem a uns espectaculars turons des d’on tenim grans vistes de Ciutat del Cap i veiem els 1ers còlits familiars del tour.
Llúdria del Cap / Cape Clowless Otter (Aonyx capensis) passejant-se per les barques de pesca. Imatge del tour líder Sergi Sales.Pingüí africà / African Penguin Còlit familiar / Familiar Chat
Dia 4 . Durant aquesta assoleiada jornada, l’objectiu prioritari va ser el saltaroques del Cap, ocell endèmic i emblemàtic de la zona. Els saltaroques són ocells rupícoles força peculiars. Només existeixen dues espècies en aquest gènere, totes dues endèmiques de Sud-àfrica i que viuen en vessants pedregossos amb més o menys cobertura vegetal. El matí ventós i la coincidència amb varis grups d’ornitòlegs que ens anem trobant sense que hagin pogut trobar-ne cap ens fa témer el pitjor, però finalment vam aconseguir el premi a la perseverança quan una parella d’aquest vistós ocell apareix ben a prop del camí recollint material per fer el niu. L’observació va ser a plaer i, a molt curta distància, amb el mascle sovint atansant-se a només 3 o 4 metres de distància.
Tot i el vent aquesta localització va tornar a ser esplèndida i vàrem anar sumant espècies a la llista destacant-ne el corb becgròs de clatell blanc, la suimanga de pit taronja o el sit del Cap.
Saltarroques del Cap / Cape Rockjumper (Chaetops frenatus) female. Saltarroques del Cap / Cape Rockjumper (Chaetos frenatus) male. A gorgeous and often elusive bird!Sit del Cap / Cape Bunting (Emberiza capensis)Gafarró del Cap / Cape Canary (Serinus canicollis)
Més arrecerats vàrem visitar un petit jardí botànic però en el qual hi havien una gran quantitat i diversitat d’ocells. Bones observacions de batis del Cap, papamosques fosc i fiscal, gafarró gris i estrilda de galta negra i els espectaculars monarques del paradís africà.
A la tarda petit trànsfer fins al West Coast National Park canviant de paisatges mentre travessem grans extensions amb bones densitat de rapinyaires i alàudids. Una espectacular òliba ens va acomiadar la jornada.
Dia 4. Des de la pròpia porta de l’hospedatge podem veure una zona inundada ben plena de limícols, gavines i xatracs. Entre ells corriols front-blanc i pàl-lid. Conduint per les pistes ens creuen els 1ers francolins jugulars, les 3 espècies d’ocells ratolí: l’ocell ratolí cara roig, el comú i el de dors blanc. El parc es visita per una xarxa de pistes en molt bon estat on no es pot córrer entre d’altres coses per evitar atropellaments de fauna. Magnífics estruços sembla que ens donen la benvinguda al parc. Travessant la zona de Fynbos veiem espècies com l’oreneta perlada, cistícola d’esquena grisa, apalis de collar, terrerola dorsigrisa o la cogullada becgrossa . A les zones amb arbres es deixen veure el gladiador xiulador, la mallerenga bruna i l’estornell bicolor. Increïbles arpelles negres rastregen la zona a baixa alçada però sense dubte el moment més màgic el generen les parades nupcials dels mascles del sisó negre meridional, alguns d’ells observats a distàncies ridículament curtes.
Arpella negra / Black Harrier (Circus maurus), a superb bird of prey!Sisó negre meridional / Southern Black Korhaan Prínia del Karoo / Karoo Prinia (Prinia flavicans)Terrerola de cap rogenc / Red-capped Lark (Calandrella cinerea)Suimanga malaquita / Malachite Sunbird (Nectarinia famosa)Estruç comuna / Common Ostrich (Struthio camelis)Cogullada bec-grossa / Large-billed Lark (Galerida magnirostris)Puput africana / African Hoopoe (Upupa africana)Bar-throated Apalis (Apalis thoracica)
Els Damaliscs es comencen a fer presents però una de les grans sorpreses va ser una rata-talp del Cap creuant amb total tranquil·litat la pista i construint en pocs minuts un cau a la sorra tot ajudants de la seva peculiar cua. Poc després ens trobem un espectacular escurçó bufador, una de les sorpreses més benvingudes del tour!
Posteriorment ens desplacem cap a l’Est creuant immenses extensions de cereal amb un bon ventall de basses on hi ha estols gegants d’oques egípcies i d’Esperons junts amb les primeres grues del Paradís i corriol de triple collar africà. Augmentem la llista d’alàudids sumant la terrerola de cap rogenc i confiats còlits variables.
Dia 5
Des d’un luxós allotjament iniciem una nova jornada per visitar un hàbitat nou, el “karoo”, zones semiàrides per un gran nombre d´endemismes i espècies interessants. Una aturada prop del riu aporta bones observacions d’ànec negre africà, camperol del cap i varies espècies d´orenetes. Fem una breu aturada en zones de rocalloses per cerca amb èxit merla roquera del Cap, gafarró totta i observacions increïblement bones de estrilda de galta negra .
Posteriorment comencem la ruta que ens endinsa cap les zones de karoo on a pesar del vent i calor veiem espècies tant interessants com la prínia del karoo (karoo prinia), còlit formiguer muntanyenc (Mountain wheater), la prínia de Namaqua (Namaqua warbler) i papamosques follet (Fairy flycatcher).
Gafarró Totta / Cape Siskin (Crithagra totta)Merla roquera del Cap / Cape Rock Thrush (Monticola rupestris)Francolí jugular / Grey-winged Francolin (Scleroptila afra)
Cada vegada l’ambient és més sec i amb vegetació més baixa, on van sortint les diverses especialitats de l’espai: còlit alafalçat, còlit del karoo, còlit tractrac, còlit formiguer meriodinal i la prínia cararoja i un bon ventall d’alàudids com: l’alosa d’esperons, l’alosa becllarga de Namaqua , la cogullada bec-grossa i l’alosa del karoo . En un dels arbres veiem 3 impressionants astors cantaires pàl·lids i una majestuós àguila marcial. Acabem una gran jornada amb vistes d’una parella de ducs africans.
Dia 6
El primer objectiu del dia és visitar unes petites zones humides molt interessants per la quantitat i diversitat d’espècies que es poden observar. Dins el bon ventall d’ànec destaquen grups de xarxets hotentots i ànecs arboris carablancs. Als canyissars estan en plena activitat de construcció de nius els teixidors i als arbres propers ens sorprèn la presencia d’un astor blanc i negre .
Comencem el transit cap el proper espai a visitar, al Parc Nacional de Bontebok, famós no només per la diversitat d’ocells sinó que també per la població del mamífer que li dóna nom, alhora que manté una petita població de zebra de muntanya. En les primeres visualitzacions des dels punts d’observació ja veiem els primers piocs de Denham. Som a les dates en les que els mascles estan exhibint-se als leks de cria, i podem observar en directe la lenta aproximació d’una femella generant un augment de l’excitació i lluïment del mascle.
Un agradable pic-nic al marge del riu en permet fer l’única observació del viatge d’alció capbrú i queleas de bec vermell. Les concentracions d’esparver d’espatlles negres soón elevades, guadint d’excel·lent observacions d’aquests rapinyaires. Les zones amb arbres i matolls permeten cercar un bon nombre d’ocells entre els que destaquen els sorollosos apalis gorja negres, acabant la jornada amb noves observacions crepusculars de ducs africans.
Pioc de Denham / Denham’s Bustard (Neotis denhami)Xarxet hotentot / Blue-billed Teal (Spatula hottentota)Bisbe vermell meridional / Southern Red Bishop (Euplectes orix)Grua del paradís / Blue Crane (Anthropoides paradiseus)Damalisc / Bontebok (Damaliscus pygargus dorcas). Image by tour leader Sergi SalesZebra de muntanya / Mountain Zebra (Equus zebra). Image by tour leader Sergi SalesBubú rovellat / Southern Boubou (Laniarius ferrugineus)Esparver d’espatlles negres / Black-winged Kite (Elanius caeruleus)Ocell secretari / Secretary Bird (Sagittarius serpentarius)
Dia 7
El camí d’accés des de l’allotjament fins al Reserva De Hoop travessa camps amb gran quantitat d’ocells, amb bones observacions d’alàudids, corriols, grues i fredelugues. Destaquen les bones visualitzacions d’alosa bec-llarga d’Aguhlas, terrerola de capell vermell i corriol pecuari.
Un dels majors atractius d’aquest fantàstic espai natural és la colònia de l’endèmic voltor del cap els quals a pesar de la boira matinera no van tardar en fer acte de presencia. Després de rastrejar les zones boscoses on vàrem detectar espècie com el papamosques fiscal, bulbul verdós costaner, batis del cap o bubú ferruginós, ens apropem a les zones obertes i dunars.
En aquests espais oberts a mes de bones observacions dels impressionants Eland surten especies noves com les piules africanes i llise). Un espectacular escurço bufador va creuar parsimoniosament la pista davant la nostra atònita mirada.
Escurçó bufador / Puff Adder (Bitis arietans). Image by tour leader Sergi Sales
L’arribada al sistema dunar es va convertir en un dels moment màgics del tour, ja es podien veure i escoltar els cops d’aleta de les Iubartes alhora que els bufits de les properes balenes franques.
Però el llarg dia encara ens guardava un altre sorpresa, a una llarga recta s’observa una llarga silueta estesa sobre l’asfalt, després de moments de dubte al apropar-nos descobrim que un caracal estirat al terra menjant un ocell atropellat. Finalment el felí va amargar-se al marge de la carretera d’on durant poc segons va mostrar la seva cara convertint-se en un dels moment inoblidables del viatge.
Alosa bec-llarga d’Agulhas / Agulhas Long-billed Lark (Certhilauda brevides)Astor blanc-i-negre / Black Sparrowhawk (Accipiter melanoleucos)Papamosques fiscal / Fiscal Flycatcher (Sigelus sigens) Voltor del Cap / Cape Vulture (Gyps coprotheres)Cuaenlairat del Karoo / Karoo Scrub Robin (Cercotrichas coryphoeus)
Dia 8
Darrer dia de viatge que es planteja com a darrera possibilitat per poder cercar alguns dels ocells que ens havien fallat o dels que volem obtindre millors observacions. Però sobretot, matí pensat per observar una de les espècies per escasses, el xatrac de Damara. Per veure’l ens desplacem cap a una zona humida litoral on la gran sorpresa va ser la quantitat i diversitat d’espècies que ens van sortir en la carretera d’accés. Estols de grues del paradís amb sisó negre meridional exhibint-se, sumant un falcó llaner cruspint-se una presa al terra i el sempre espectacular secretari. Acabant-t’ho de rematar dos mascles de vídua de cua d’agulla intentant impressionar amb les danses a una discreta femella.
Vídua de cua d’agulla / Pin-tailed Whydah (Vidua macroura)Garsa de mar negrea africana / African Oystercatcher (Haematopus moquini)Tortoreta cuallarga / Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis)Corriol frontblanc / White-fronted Plover (Charadrius marginatus).Falciot cuablanc africà / White-rumped Swift (Apus caffer)
La visita a l’estuari es converteix es una bona oportunitat per anar farcint el checklist del tour amb varies espècies de limícoles entre les que destaca l’observació de dues sisetes cendroses i l’oportunitat de veure simultàniament els corriols grossos, pecuaris i frontblanc.
El rastreig dels grups de gavines i xatracs finalment dona el seu fruit poden observar 4 xatracs de Damara entre xatracs grossos .
Satisfacció per l’enèsim objectiu complert, ara comencem la tornada cap l’aeroport fent aturades a petits zones humides on fem el darrer intent per detectar l’única espècie que se`ns resistia, la malvasia africana, finalment un lluent mascle es va deixar veure per acabar de la millor manera possible un gran tour per la regió de Ciutat del Cap.
El comptatge final va ser de 233 espècies d’ocells vistes, entre elles 46 endèmics i 17 propers a endèmics.
All images in this trip report by Carles Oliver unless otherwise specified. All rights reserved.
Overview: 8th issue of our tour in Oman! Step by step, this wonderful country is becoming one of our classic destinations. Once more, our guests have enjoyed excellent views in all main targets including the near-endemics Arabian Grosbeak, Jouanin’s Petrel, Yemen Serin, Socotra Cormorant and Arabian Eagle Owl along with a long list of specialties including Crab Plover, Hypocolius, Arabian Warbler, Persian Shearwater, Palla’s Gull, Cotton Pygmy Goose, Hume’s Wheatear, Desert Owl, Rose-coloured Starling and Steppe Eagle. The weather has been stable and slightly warmer than in previous trips. We had a couple of windy days in the South, but with no major disturbance in our birding time. The number of ducks this year was high and well assorted, but the number of raptors was not as bright as in other years. Once more, the tour was fullfilled with scarcities and rarities. Beyond Blyth’s Reed Warbler & Lesser Whistling Ducks, we had to emphasise the self found Grey-headed Swamphen, Semicollared Flycatcher, Amur Wagtail (3rd for Oman) and Ashy Drongo (4th for Oman).
Day 1. During this day all tour participants had nocturnal flights to Muscat arriving in Oman early in the morning. This is a bit unusual, since there is normally a flight combination that allow us to arrive to Oman during the evening. This time, however, it was not possible.
Day 2. After assembling in the airport we enjoyed a small briefing while collecting the car. From there, we covered the short distance from the airport and the first birding spot of the trip. We invested 40 minutes in a lovely wetland in the sea side. Here we had a number of common waders but also some scarce species including Tibetan (formerly Lesser) Sand Plovers, 3 Marsh Sandpipers, Ruffs and several Little Stints. Here we also got the first Citrine Wagtails of the tour as well as Isabelline Shrike, Arabian Bee-eater, 7 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses flying over, Osprey and the only one Black-winged Kite of the trip.
From here we went to visit the small but always productive Al Ansab Lagoons, where we enjoyed Northern Shovelers, White-cheeked Bulbuls, Delicate Prinia, Grey Francolin and close views on Temminck’s Stint including extremely close views on this species and Little Stint while feeding side by side, allowing to go through the details that allow to tell them apart. The very first Indian Pond Heron of the trip showed up also here, and a few minutes later we also connected with 1 Clamorous Reed Warbler while it was climbing the reeds. A small channel beside the lagoons provided the first surprise of the trip, a wonderful Grey-headed Swamphen, a truly scarcity in the country!
Before our lunch stop, we still had time to check a last location. This time we chose a river mouth, where we had a good selection of waders, gulls and terns. While driving, a pair of laybys allowed us great shots on the very common Red-wattled Lapwings. Once at place, we had both Greater & Lesser Sand Plovers, Ruddy Turnstones, Sanderlings, Whimbrels and Bar-tailed Godwits but also the first of many Sooty Gulls & Greater Crested Terns along with Common, Caspian, Whiskered and Little Terns. As interesting, here we got a nice flock of 4 Common Gulls, a scarce wintering species in Oman.
After lunch, we still had time to check another river mouth, where we were delighted with great views on Delicate Prinia, Indian Rollers, Common Kingfisher and the 7 Squacco Herons.
We went to end the day in Al Qurm Park, where we had great views on all 3 species of Bulbuls living in the area: White-spectacled, White-cheeked and the alien Red-vented. Here we also had some Citrine Wagtails, although always mobile, and a wonderful Jack Snipe that provided great views in low, short flights as it was moving along with 3 Common Snipes and, at least, 2 Pin-tailed Snipes.
Many other species were seen here, including Clamorous Reed Warbler, Common Chiffchaff, Osprey, Eurasian Teals and a juvenile Purple Heron.
Back to the beach, we were lucky to connect again with several Steppe & Heuglin’s Gulls as well as some CaspianGulls, and we were delighted to see a Palla’s Gull walking on its own on the beach. Unfortunately, we bird was moved before we could arrive close enough to take good pictures..
Red-wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus), a fairly common wader in Northern Oman.Clamorous Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus stentoreous) in Al Ansab Lagoons.
Arabian Bee-eater (Merops cyanophrys), lives in small numbers along the coast in Oman.Left to right: Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus), Greater Sand Plover (Charadrius leschenaultii) & Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) around Muscat.Grey Francolin (Ortygornis pondicerianus) in a lovely setting. Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis), a common specialty in the Omani winters.
Day 3. Leaving Muscat behind us, this day we drove up to the Al Harar Mountains in search of some specialties. Unfortunately, it was a very windy day and our time there was decimated by the weather conditions. Still, a pair of morning walks in the top of the mountains allowed us to enjoy 1 Arabian Red Fox, a very attractive Eastern Black Redstart, 4 Hume’s Wheatears and 2 Persian Wheatears. But beyond this, we got very little. By the end of the morning we came down to the valley and, once sheltered from the wind, we scanned some large trees. It was almost before getting out of the car that we connected with a “not-that-elusive” Eastern Orphean Warbler and a further exploration of the trees around produced good views on 3 Plain Leaf Warblers and 1 female Blue Rock Thrush feeding on the ground.
After a glorious lunch in a Turkish restaurant we explored some of the wonderful gorges nearby Nizwa. Here we had more views on Plain Leaf Warblers and Hume’s Wheatears but also 2 Desert Larks feeding on the wadyplus the only Lapped-faced Vulture of the trip, that unfortunately was too fast for a proper photo. Our evening exploring the gorge extended clearly beyond sunset, hoping to connect with the extremely rare Omani Owl. But the wind was not in our side and a very light sunset brise soon became a quite strong wind that made nearly impossible any proper owling.
Back to the accommodation, we ended the day with a great dinner by the swimming pool of our hotel.
The very attractive Hume’s Wheatear (Oenanthe albonigra) on its habitat.Lesser Whitethroat (Curruca curruca), the commonest bush warbler in Oman.The impressive landscape of the Al Harar Mounts.
Day 4. Our fabolous transfer to Salalah started with an early breakfast in our accommodation. Once the car was packed we started moving, and we had our first birding stop only 20 minutes away from the accommodation. Here, in a lovely plain rich in scrubs and thornbush, we went for a stroll and we were soon contacting with a flock of 6 Arabian Babblers that showed really well, allowing us to taking multiple images as they were moving along the stream. The ambient was fresh, and despite the sun a thin jacket was welcome. Taking advantage of this, it was a nice birding activity, and the Babblers were very restless and moving fast so we had to be light in order to follow them!
Once everybody in the group was happy with the views, we kept walking through the plain. Purple Sunbirds and Lesser Whitethroats were common, and we also got good views on Persian Wheatears. 2 Tawny Pipits showed very well but, after all, the area looked like a bit empty when compared with other visits, and the most remarkable bird beyond the Babblers was a very showy Common Whitethroat of the very dark icterops race.
Back to the cars, we faced some hours of solid driving with some service stops in our way. Brown-necked Ravens and random Greater Hoopoe Larks crossing the road were the only distractions while crossing the always impressive Empty Quarter.
For lunch, we stopped in one of the most traditional stops in this way: the abandoned gardens of the Qitbit Hotel. We did not have much time, but once more this stop proved to be very productive. As soon as we step out of the car, a nice Pied Wheatear appeared in front of us, allowing us wonderful views. Promising! We ate our packed lunches and had a small stroll around, the sun was hitting hard and it was little movement, but we were lucky enough to find a nice Red-breasted Flycatcher feeding around a dense thicket. Happy with the views on both birds, we went back to the car only distracted with the calls of a couple of Siberian Chiffchaffs and Abyssinian White-eyes. From here, we drove the short distance between our lunch spot and some sewage farms in the middle of the desert.
Arabian Babblers (Turdoides squamiceps), in the typical acacia woodland that favours.Persian Wheatear (formerly Red-tailed Wheatear) is, in my opinion, the most elegant bird within its family.Brown-necked Raven (Corvus ruficollis) is a common sight in most of Oman.Pied Wheatear (Oenanthe pleschanka), an uncommon winter visitor in Oman.
When we arrived it was already mid afternoon, and the fields were filled with insectivores. We had several Isabelline & Desert Wheatears, but also good looks on Crested Larks. Even before getting inside the fields, a majestic male 2nd year Pallid Harrier flew right in front of our vehicle, providing the group with incredible views. Moreover, the bird decided to stop really close to us, and we all enjoyed the bird manoeuvring against the brise. At the same time, up to 5 Greater Hoopoe Larks were feeding around us, some of them even doing small display-like flights! It is always wonderful to see this large Larks and go through the details of their delicate plomage, often difficult to see with the very strong light of the desert.
Only a minute later, 4 Cream-coloured Coursers came to land close to us. Not happy with that, some of them started feeding around, moving closer and closer as they looked for invertebrates in the hard desert soil.
The stop was already a big success, but we decided to move a bit to the East to explore a particular spot that has been really productive several times before. There, we had the firsts Levant Grey Shrike (the aucheri race of Great Grey Shrike) and Namaqua Doves of the trip, plus a female Montagu’s Harrier circling in the sky while hundreds of White Storks were feeding on the recently harvested fields. Tens of Common Kestrels were feeding there, and we were surprised to pick up a Lesser Kestrel flying and hunting in the middle of such a mess of small falcons! Lesser Kestrel is not a particularly common Falcon in Oman during winter, and it was a real bonus for the trip!
At some point, small flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses started moving from the desert around the fields, and a small flock was about to stop right in front of us. Unfortunately, a Kestrel moved them away. A bit more of scanning produced a lovely Steppe Grey Shrike and two more Pallid Harriers before living the farms and drive the very last hour of the transfer, arriving to our accommodation a bit after sunset.
Greater Hoopoe-Lark (Alaemon alaudipes) was the very first bird that we saw when arrived to the farms!Male 1st winter Pallid Harrier (Circus macrourus) that came to say hello to our group!Isabelline Wheatear (Onenathe isabellinus) is the probably the commonest Wheatear in Southern Oman. Cream-coloured Coursers (Cursorior cursor) have become commoner in the last years. Male 2nd year Pallid Harrier (Circus macrourus). One of the 5 Pallid Harriers seen during the trip.There were hundreds of Black-crowned Sparrow-Larks (Eremopterix nigriceps) in the desert farms.White Stork (Ciconia ciconia) has moved from a big rarity to a common view in Southern Oman in only 3 years!
Day 5. Our first morning in Dhofar was devoted to explore one of the most productive spots in the country. Ayn Hamran is a shining, delightful place where to enjoy a number of the most look-after specialties in Oman, and we were directly there after enjoying a very nice breakfast in our accommodation. The morning was a bit windy, and the bird activity looked like low. Still, a few metres of walk was enough to contact with the first of many Cinnamon-breasted Buntings, African Silverbills, Abyssian White-eyes, Arabian Sunbirds, Rüppell’s Weavers and African Paradise Flycatchers. It didn’t take long before we found our first Arabian Warbler. It was the tour participant Francesc who pointed out the bird, that was feeding in a medium size thornbush. All the group enjoyed great views. Graceful Prinias were also evident, and a Turkestan Shrike catching a good morning light was also a nice adding to our list. A few yards away, a pair of showy Blackstarts were waiting for us, and a superb Black-crowned Tchagra was having a sunbath next to them. Meantime, a pair of Palestine Sunbirds were feeding nearby, and a Long-billed Pipit was doing its thing, walking only a few metres in front of our group.
We headed towards the vehicles to explore the plain before having lunch, but in the way a Chinese (Amur) White Wagtail showed up, moving along with a White Wagtail. I looked behind me but I was alone! No one of the clients followed me, as they were all distracted by the many attractive birds along the Ayn. Unfortunately, the bird moved away and all our efforts to relocate the bird were unsuccessful. It was a great sight, the 3rd record for Oman!
We combined the area with the surrounding plane, where we only found 2 Greater Short-toed Larks, several Black-crowneds Sparrow-Larks and the first Bonelli’s Eagle of the trip.
Back to Ayn Hamran we still had some more exploration, and our efforts were granted with lovely views on 2 Red-breasted Flycatchers, 1 Semicollared Flycatcher, 4 gorgeous Bruce’s Green Pigeons and good views on a very restless Blyth’s Reed Wabler, another rarity for the country that has been appearing in the same tree during the last 3 years!!
Finally we left Ayn Hamran after enjoying 7+ Arabian Warblers and 5+ Black-crowned Tchagras. Still, there were few birds of prey moving, and we only had 1 Short-toed Snake Eagle during our time there. After some relax and a coffee stop we drove down to the coast to spend some time in a lovely wetland. But first, we had a fast stop to enjoy some of the Spotted Thick-knees that live inside Salalah. As always, this tame thick-knees provided the group with excellent views and our stop was completed by a lovely sight on 5 Crested Honey Buzzards, 1 Greater Spotted Eagle and 1 Booted Eagle.
Arabian Warbler (Curruca leucomelaena) is likely to provide views like this! Note the tiny spider web in the auricular of the bird.African Silverbill (Euodice cantans), a common sight in Southern Oman.Cinnamon-breasted Bunting (Emberiza tahapisi) is the commonest passerine around the Dhofar.Long-billed Pipit (Anthus similis) provided also really close views to the group!No matter how many you have seen, an African Paradise Flycatcher (Tersphone viridis) is always a wonderful thing to watch!The always tame Blackstart (Oenanthe melanura) is also a very sought-after species for all the tour participants! Amur (Chinese) Wagtail (Motacilla alba leucopsis) was one of the surprises of the tour. 3rd record for Oman, if accepted. Red-breasted Flycatcher (Ficedula parva)Spotted Thick-knee (Buthinus capensis) close-up. A urban delicatessen in Salalah. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso. Crested Honey Buzzard (Pernis ptilorhynchus) has a small overwintering population in palm groves around Salalah.
Once in the wetland, we had a very variety of waterfowl including 3 Intermediate Egrets (recently split into 3 different species. The wintering population ocuring in Arabia is considered to be Middle Egret), 1 Purple Heron, several Squacco Heron, 1 Indian Pond Heron, Little Egrets along with Shovelers, Wigeons, 2 Garganeys, Eurasian Teals, Pintails and Common Pochards but the most interesting ducks in this stop were 7 Greater White-fronted Geese but, especially, the flock of 6 Cotton Pygmy Geese feeding in the open water along with Eurasian Moorhens + Red-knobbed & Eurasian Coots. This is one of the few places where to find this Asian species in Arabia, and this winter this was the only flock in the whole of Oman. This time there were not many waders, but along with the 400+ Glossy Ibises we had 3 Wood Sandpipers, 1 Marsh Sandpiper, Little Stints, Common Snipes, a single Black-tailed Godwit, some Ruffs, Temmincks Stint and the very common Black-necked Stilts. In the reeds we were surprised to find a Great Reed Warbler, an uncommon winter visitor and a new scarcity to add to our growing list.
We were next to the sea, and several Gulls and Terns were resting on the sand, some of them allowing extremely close views. Heuglin’s Gulls were dominant among the large gulls, with only a few Steppe Gulls here, while Slender-billed Gull was, as in most of the country, the commonest small gull. Some Sooty & Black-headed Gulls were also present. Caspian Terns were evident and offered magnificent views, and the presence of some Lesser Crested & Greater Crested Terns, an excellent way to compare shapes and colours between all of them. Beyond, we still had Whiskered & Little Terns + the very first Gull-billed & White-winged Black Terns of the trip.
The very last stop of this magical day was devoted to explore a different Ayn (the local name for the uphilled, streamed valleys). It was already a bit late in the evening, and we had little birding action beyond a couple of Greenshanks. But right after sunset everything changed and several Arabian Scops Owls started singing around us. It took us 15 minutes to get into one of them, but we got excellent views! But, even as we were enjoying the tiny scops owl, a bigger owl was already singing really close. We moved only 200 metres away, and only 2 minutes later a majestic Arabian Eagle Owl landed in the top of a tree to offered us a gorgeous view that lasted for 5 minutes! Finally, a second Arabian Eagle Owl called up in the slope, and our Owl decided to go further up in search of its partner. Still excited about this great sight, when the call of a Barn Owl just came from the valley mixing with the calls of a small flock of Night Herons. It was obvious that the night was good for owls, so we tried a improved view on Arabian Scops Owl and less than five minutes later we got a second bird singing from inside a tree!
Very happy after such a great success, we went down to our accommodation, where another excellent dinner was waiting for us!
Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleuca) by a swamp. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.Caspian Tern (Hydroprogne caspia) in the superb afternoon light typical in Oman. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.Arabian Scops Owl (Otus pamelae) singing high from a tree.Arabian Eagle Owl (Bubo milesi), once again great views in this recent split. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.
Dia 6. Still recovering from the excellent previous day, we spent the first hour of the day exploring one of the best streams in the Dhofar. Here, lovely nenufars create the perfect conditions for a number of secretive species living in the reedbeds. The place was as great as always, and within 1 hour we got 7 Bluethroats, 2 Eastern Olivaceous Warblers, 7 Bruce’s Green Pigeons, heard White-breasted Waterhen, and had some raptors including Lanner Falcon, Short-toed Snake Eagle, Greater Spotted Eagle circling with a wonderful male Pallid Harrier, plus lovely adult Night Heron feeding on a very large fish (probably too big) , the only Eurasian Reed Warbler of the trip, 4 Citrine Wagtails and heard Yellow/Little Bittern.
From here we covered the short distance to a different Ayn, and even before arriving to the place, a gorgeous male Arabian Grosbeak was waiting for us, singing from the top of a small Acacia tree. During the next half an hour we got a number of different sights as we followed the bird, that was feeding in the trees along the Ayn. It was, once again, a wonderful experience to find and watch for so long such a scarce bird, and all the group enjoyed walk-away views before being distracted by close Isabelline Shrikes, Arabian Warblers and Blackstarts.
Arabian Grosbeak (Rhynchostruthus percivali), a very scarce inhabitant of the Dhoffar deciduous woodlands. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.Our 20 minutes long sight allowed us to see some interesting details, like when came down to feed on this euphorbia.
From here, we started climbing up to explore the Dhoffar uplands. It is always a magnificent experience to be up there, and our way to the top was constantly interrumped by Eastern Imperian & Steppe Eagles but also by Short-toed Snake Eagles and Peregrine Falcon and the locally common Arabian Wheatears, Fan-tailed Raven and Arabian Sunbirds (a recent split from Shining Sunbird). For lunch, we chose a typical stop with some seats and shade (no fancy places this time), and after our packed lunches a short walk allowed to connect with 4 Yemen Serins that were feeding on the ground along with Cinnamon-breasted Buntings. They were, once again, really easy to find (especially when it is a bird that can be very hard to find out!). A further walk didn’t produce much beyond several Pale Rock Martins and distant views on Tristam’s Starlings and Bonelli’s Eagle.
Even higher, we arrived to an area of massive cliffs. This is one of the best places to enjoy Arabian Wheatears, and they were all around, even nesting in the hotel located right in the top. From here we were in search of the Verreaux’s Eagles nesting in the area, but they reluctant to show this time. For instance, we got 3 Long-legged Buzzards, Blue Rock Thrush and several Tristam’s Starlings. But the best were the 4 Arabian Partridges that Tanit found in the cliffs! A great spot in a species that has proof to be difficult to find in my last visits to this country.
Yemen Serin (Crithagra menachensis), a very shy near-endemic, that showed up superbly. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.The rather small Arabian Wheatear (Oenanthe lugentoides) was really common this winter in the highlands. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.Female Palestine Sunbird (Cinnyris osea) close up in the Dhofar highlands.Arabian Partridge (Alectoris melanocephala) overwatching the desert. Bonelli’s Eagle (Aquila fasciata) patrolling its territory.Short-toed Snake Eagle (Circaetus gallicus), one of the very superb sights during the trip.Steppe Eagle (Aquila nipalensis), full adult. Note the distinctive “joker” smile. Eastern Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca).
By the time we left to highlands it was mid afternoon, and the very last stop of the day was for some farms around Salalah. Here, Crested Larks looked all around but also a number of Singing Bush Larks, first singing high up but later providing the group with wonderful views as they were singing from the walls around. Here we also had Booted Eagle, 2 Siberian Stonechats, 2 Marsh Harriers, several Prinias and 17 Whiskered Tern in a lovely feeding flock. There were tens of Western Yellow Wagtails, but it looked like little else. But suddenly 2 adults Rose-coloured Starlings flew over our group, going to stop in a distant farm. We all jumped into the vehicles and drove there, and in the next 10 minutes we enjoyed great views on the Starlings but also 2 Bluethroats and 1 Red-throated Pipit calling in flight! At sunset, we counted 17 Little Ringed Plovers feeding in the plain around us.
This very tame Singing Bush Lark (Mirafra cantillans) allowed us amazing views.Rose-coloured Starling (Pastor roseus) was a rather unexpected bird in our trip!A very interesting male Siberian Stonechat (Saxicola maurus)
Dia 7. This day we went for an offshore South of Salalah. After a pair of days with strong winds, today the sea was really plain, almost like an endless lake. As soon as leaving the small harbour we had the first of many Persian Shearwaters moving North in small flocks of 2-3 birds. Both Sooty and Heuglin’s Gull were common, and their acrobatic flight was often the sign for a Loggerhead or an Olive Ridley Sea Turtle to be breathing in the surface. Moving a few miles away from the coast, we got a small flock of Terns feeding, and were lucky to discover a 1st winter Bridled Tern feeding along with 3 Common Terns. Masked Boobies were commoner than in other offshores, including a wonderful bird that allowed us great images both in flight and on the surface of the sea. Persian Shearwater came in and out as we were chumming, and a surprising Pomarine Skua appeared as well to try to steal some fish from the common Sooty Gulls! But the main character was still to show, and it took us longer than expected, but we finally got decent views on 1 Jouanin’s Petrel that was flying mid way out from our boat!
Back to the harbour we still had another encounteer with the a mixed pod of Spinner & Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dophins. Back to the harbour, a Hawksbill Sea Turtle came to the surface for a short period of time, a nice adding to the much common Green Sea Turtles around. In the shore, tens of Abdim’s Storks were resting along with a large concentration of Gulls.
One of many Red-necked Phalaropes (Phalaropus lobatus) seen during our offshoreAlways amazing, Masked Boobies (Sula dactylara) stole the show for us!One of the many Persian Shearwater (Puffinus persicus) see in our offshore.1st winter Sooty Gull (Ichthyaetus hemprichii), the commonest gull around.Abdim’s Storks (Ciconia abdimii) in lovely morning light with Sooty Gulls.
After enjoying a good coffee & tea stop, we drove back to the Dhofar highlands, to have our picnic lunches in the impressive cliffs of the areas, including a short stop to see the always impressive Baobabs of the Dhofar, the Northernmost baobabs in the world!
Our lunch time in the wonderful cliffs of the Dhofar provided us great views on a Striolated Bunting, a species that had escaped from us in the northern Al Harar Mounts.
From the highlands we were back to the Southern part of the city, where a stop on the Raysut River mouth is always mandatory. Here, we counted 17 Terek’s Sandpiper just arrived to the place! Surprisingly, the number of plovers was low, but we got 1 Steppe Eagle on the ground along with 8 Ospreys, several Gulls (including a superb Palla’sGull), 1 Pin-tailed Snipe moving along 4 Common Snipes, 14 Eurasian Spoonbills, 2 Citrine Wagtails, the only 2 Gadwalls of the trip (male and female), Garganeys, Wigeons, Pintails and a single Greater White-fronted Goose. Here we also got the first Socotra Cormorants of the trip and a good array of waders including Temminck’s & Little Stints, Grey Plovers, Black & Bar-tailed Godwits, the always impressive Siberian race of Eurasian Curlew + Whimbrels, Ruffs, Sanderlings, Greenshanks, Oystercatchers, 3 Curlew Sandpipers and the only Great Knot of the trip.
Checking the Terns resting on the beach we found 7 species: Common, Little, Caspian, Lesser Crested, Greater Crested Tern, Gull-billed & Whiskered. A funny Pheasant-tailed Jacana feeding in beach was an interesting and rather unexpected adding!
From here, a second stop was made to explore a different wetland, and the most interesting birds there were 6 Red-knobbed Coots, 2 Pheasant-tailed Jacana and some flocks of Socotra Cormorants moving South.
The very last of the day was devoted to Desert Owl, a very scarce and still unknown species, especially in Oman, where it was discovered for the first time only in 2014. Our wait until sunset was fast rewarded with 2 Desert Owls calling not far from our position, and a bit more of wait was necessary until 1 of them decided to come to its usual song rock, offering the group an unforgettable sight with the male singing only 20 metres away from us while the female was still singing higher in the slope. At the end, we saw both individuals singing in a phenomenal chorus that lasted as one of the most superb sights of the trip!!
Part of the group admiring the baobabs.Small flock of Eurasian Spoonbills (Platalea leucorodia) with some waders.Palla’s Gull (Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus) along with House Crows, Steppe Gulls, Flamingoes and Black-necked Stilt.Pheasant-tailed Jacanas (Hydrophaisanus chirurgus) were stating to develop their long, pheasant-like tails.We were extremely lucky with Desert Owls (Strix hadorami) this year. The male landed a few metres away from us, while the female was singing higher in the small cliff.
Carles Oliver
Dia 8. Today was a day to enjoy the desert and some nice wetlands. After the glorious end of the previous day, we left the coastal plain to get into the desert. After a short transfer, we arrived to the small oasis that hosts the only Hypocolius overwintering population in Oman. A first walk around the area revealed some Nile Valley Sunbirds, including a nice male, were feeding along with Common Chiffchaffs and Lesser Whitethroats (hadorami race) A lovely flock of Sand Partridges running up and down in the oasis was a lovely entertainment for us, as was a pair of confiding Desert Larks. Beyond this, the area was quiet, and it took us some time to find the first Hypocolius. A distant call put us in the way, and Carmine found a male resting low in a bush. During the next 15 minutes we watched the bird alternatively resting and feeding in a tiny bush, but we always respected the distance. Another 20 minutes were necessary for the bird to move, just in time for a small group of Polish birdwatchers to arrive to the oasis and directly connect with the bird thanks to our indications.
Finally we left, with the bird still resting inside the bush. But we didn’t go far before large flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses flew above us in search of water. The bush around had to very nice Asian Desert Warblers that were very welcome by the group, and Levant Grey Shrike, Desert Wheatear and very tame pair of Blackstarts completed the list of passerines around. Scanning the ground was not difficult to find a nice flock of 27 Crowned Sandgrouses that came to drink water in a tiny pond. As always, a couple of Eastern Imperial Eagles were closely watching the flocks of Sandgrouses..
Hypocolius (Hypocolius ampelinus). This year we found two separate flocks at the typical place. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.After 9 trips to Oman, this has been the first time to see a Hypocolius feeding on the ground!Nile Valley Sunbird (Hedydipna metallica) male catching the morning light.Desert Lark (Ammomanes deserti), always showing its satin-like plomage!Crowned Sandgrouse (Pterocles coronata) ready to drink water.
After such a good morning, we headed back to Salalah for a good meal and a short midday rest before spending the afternoon in a number of close locations. Out first stop after lunch was in a public park in Salalah. There, we had several Western Yellow Wagtail (including one individual with some characters of Eastern Yellow Wagtail..), 2 Bruce’s Green Pigeon, several Tree Pipits and Hoopoes. From here we drove to Raysut, the location where until a few years ago a massive number of Steppe Eagle used to overwinter. Once in Raysut, we scanned around and we could only find 1 Steppe Eagle, but hundreds of Abdim’s Storks along with White Storks, Red-wattled Lapwings, 2 Spur-winged Lapwings one of the funny hybrid between both species!
Further South, a final stop was made to enjoy a huge flock of hundreds of Socotra Cormorants gathering in the water. Here, we also got nice views on 2 Pheasant-tailed Jacana and 1 European Roller on a road light post.
Socotra Cormorants (Phalacrocorax nigrogularis) gatter in large numbers.
Dia 9. This day we felt the wonderful Dhofar area behind to concentrate a bit in other regions of Oman. But before leaving, we still had time to check some farms in the it self, where we saw hundreds of Western Yellow Wagtails and Skylarks we could not specify which species along with Singing Bush Lars, 1 female Western Marsh Harrier and 1 Greater Spotted Eagle. Our next stop to explore some plains with a good population of Arabian Gazelles, and we didn’t have wait long before we found a small herb of 3 followed by two more of this kinda small and endangered gazelle. Here, we also got nice views on both Bonelli’s & Easterm Imperial Eagles and 3 Cape Thick-knees resting by the road. A layby stop produced nice scope views on 2 Striolated Bunting before having some solid driving until our next stop, a small coastal wetland right in the border between Dhofar and Al-Wusta regions.
Here we enjoyed our packed lunches and had nice views on the 4 shy Lesser Whistling Ducks that were found a few days earlier by another group of birdwatchers. Along with the whistling ducks we also got other interesting birds here including 1 Masked Booby, Ruff, Turkestan Shrike, 2 drake Tufted Ducks, small numbers of Wigeons and Garganeys, 1 Osprey and 2 Wood Sandpipers.
We kept driving North during the and had a final stop in another small river mouth. Here, a short walk around proved to be productive again and we had 2 Siberian Chiffchaffs, 2 Tawny Pipits, 2 Palla’sGulls, 3 Eurasian Spoonbills,1 female Eurasian Sparrowhawk, 1 Sand Martin, Pintails, Wigeons and 7 Greater Flamingoes.
From here we just drove the last miles before arriving to our wonderful accommodation.
Arabian Gazelles (Gazella arabica) climbing up the Dhofar hillsides.One of many Eastern Imperial Eagles (Aquila heliaca) seen during the trip. There were mostly young birds (like the one in the image), but also some superb adults and 1 very interesting 3rd year bird.The Frankiscense Trees (Boswellis sp.) dominates the landscape high up in the dry slopes of the Dhofar.Turkestan (aka Red-tailed) Shrike (Lanius phonicuroides). Palla’s Gulls (Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus), as superb as always!
Dia 10. After having a nice breakfast in our hotel, we just started moving out of Duqm. A first stop walking around a bushland produced nothing out of a Great Grey Shrike (auchery race) but, before living the city, we decided to check some small gardens. We were just approaching when a Drongo just flew over the van. A Drongo! A Drongo! We park the right there, in a 4 lane road (please note that in Duqm there is no traffic at all!) and jumped out to try to relocate our Drongo. It didn’t take too long as the Drongo was nicely sitting in the top of a small building right in the center of the garden. After several images and trying to have the bird from different angles, it came out clear to be an Ashy Drongo! Only the 4th record for Oman!
Delighted with this bird, we invested some extra 10 minutes in checking other gardens around, and we found Common Sandpiper, 2 Bluethroats (including a very obliging male), Yellow Wagtails and a very tame Little Ringed Plover.
Ashy Drongo (Dicrurus leucophaeus), nice surprise for our group!Obliging Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica) just by the tarmac.Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius).
From here we moved around Masirah island, were we had hours to check the tydal plains. Unfortunately for us, the tide was stronger than average and the birds were more far away than usual. Still we got nice scope views on 12 Crab Plovers and checking the 1000s of waders we found 2 Marsh Sandpipers along with hundreds of Dunlins, Curlew Sandpipers, Bar-tailed Godwits, some Terek’s Sandpipers, nice Greater Sand Plovers moulting to summer plomage, Gull-billed Terns, Spoonbills, Oystercatchers, Greenshanks, Redshanks, Lesser Sand Plovers, Sanderlings and Kentish Plovers along with Eurasian Curlews, Flamingoes and Western Reef Egrets to name only a few. The area is also excellent to have very close views on some common species including Greater Crested Tern, Caspian Gull and others. This time was not different, and the photographers in the group enjoyed the most!
From one of the view point over the tidal plains, we got the second Pied Wheatear of the trip (a female), but nothing else of interest.
During the afternoon we kept going North with only 2 extra stops. The very first of them was to check a typical place for Asian Koels, and we were lucky to find at least 3 of this very scarce species in Oman. They were a bit active and allowed nice images while resting into the small acacias of a tiny suburb.
The very last stop of the day was devoted to a tiny scrubland in the middle of the dunes. Some years ago we discovered this to be a nice place for Ménétriés’s Warblers, and this time was not different. This is a very skulking species, but only after walking some 100 metres we got a nice male flying away from us. Some patience was required, but at the end the male came out of the vegetation (for some seconds), allowing everybody in the group to have good views on its beautiful salmon breast
A lovely way to end a very surprising day!
Greater Crested Tern (Thalasseus bergii) close up. Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.One of the Crab Plovers (Droma ardeola) during the tour. Unfortunately they were more far away than average. Greater Flamingoes (Phoenicopterus roseus). Image by tour participant Carmine Grasso.Pied Wheatear (Oenanthe pleschanka)It was warm, but not for this Sinai Agama (Pseudotrapelus siniatus).One of 3 Asian Koels (Eudynamys scolopaceus) seen during the afternoon.
Dia 11. Very last transfer of the trip. This day we had only time for a breakfast and transfer to the airport. In our way, we still could enjoy 18 Indian Rollers along the first 50 kilometres of transfer, along with Eurasian Hoopoe and 2 Arabian Bee-eaters. Around the airport we had the very last (and short) stop of the trip, and we had the change for a last view on Red-wattled Lapwings, Lesser Sand Plovers, Little Stints, Dunlins and Curlew Sandpiper.
LIST OF BIRDS SEEN DURING THE TRIP
The list includes the common English and Catalan names + scientific name of all the species:
Arabian Partridge – Perdiu d’Aràbia (Alectoris melanocephala)
Sand Partridge – Perdiu del desert (Ammoperdix heyi)
Totes les fotos en aquest resum són obra del tour líder Sergi Sales. Tots els drets reservats.
Introducció: Un dels grans espectacles de l’ornitologia europea es la hivernada d’oques i altres ocells aquàtics als Països Baixos. Es tracta d’una gran oportunitat per gaudir i aprendre de la gran diversitat d’oques, cignes, becs de serra i ànecs que es concentren en aquestes dates en aquest meravellós país. Visita obligada per qualsevol ornitòleg/a mediterrani.
Dia 1 Vol d’anada sense incidències i amb arribada puntual a Àmsterdam. Una vegada dins el vehicle de lloguer afrofitem les darreres hores de llum del dia per gaudir de les primeres espècies d’interès. Ens dirigim a un espigó prop de la capital famós per l’observació d’aus marines i on als darrers dies s’havien estat observant ànecs glacials a refugi de les dures condicions del Mar del Nord. Ràpidament veiem un a la zona interna del port alhora que dos més a mar obert. Per sorpresa i a molt curta distancia, cercant menjar a la bromera del mar, trobem un escuraflascons bec-gros! Simultàniament veiem un dels escassos corb marins emplomallats de la zona, territs foscos i un desconfiat grasset de costa.
Entre els abundants gavians de potes roses es veuen un bon nombre de gavines cendroses i els primers gavinots del viatge. Dues hores de llum molt ben aprofitades!
Ànec glacial (Clangula hyemalis), un hivernant escàs als Països Baixos.Grasset de costa (Anthus petrosus) Escuraflascons bec-grós (Phalaropus fulicarius), un dels molts exemplars que van “inundat” Europa a finals de la tardor.
Dia 2 Matí fred però sense vent on el primer objectiu és cercar un mascle de morell de collar que es veu a una zona propera a l’hotel a on fem nit. Després de gaudir de grans observacions de morells de plomall, cap-roig i altres espècies d’ànecs, cau la boira i desistim de buscar aquest morell americà que no es torna a retrobar en les següents jornades. Aquí ja fem les primeres observacions de morells d’ulls grocs i tords ala-rojos. Ens dirigim cap al Sud, a on per cercar ocells sedosos. Després d’un hivern amb cert flux d’entrada d’aquest meravellós ocell, sembla que s’han anat desplaçat i els darrers dies només es veien uns pocs exemplars. La sort va estar del nostre costat, ja que vàrem trigar menys d’un minut en detectar un dels exemplars entrant a uns arbustos a menjar baies. El grup va gaudir de més de 40 minuts gaudint de 2 exemplars a menys de cinc metres de distància alimentant-se sense aturador de baies i drupes. Moments màgics!!
Després de gaudir d’un cafè ben calent per recuperar-nos de l’excitació del moment ens dirigim cap a uns pòlders ben recarregats d’energia. Tornant cap al Nord visitem fins a fer-se fosc un seguit de pòlders on ja entrem al món de la hivernada de grans grups d’aus aquàtiques. Aquí trobem grans estols d’oques de diverses espècies: oques comunes, canadenques, egípcies i, sobretot, oques de galta blanca i riallera grossa. Des del mateix punt, pero canviant l’orientació veiem masses d’aigua on hi ha números descomunals d’ànecs xiulaires barrejats amb morells d’ulls grocs. Aquí ens sorprèn l’alt nombre de becs de serra petits, dels que comptem més de 20 exemplars repartits per la zona barrejats amb els primers becs de serra grossos del viatge.
Més que satisfets de la jornada ens dirigim cap al cotxe quan de sobte entre la boira apareixen dos adults majestuosos d’àguila marina. Gran final!
Primer plànol d’un dels magnífics ocells sedosos (Bombycilla garrulus)Oca de galta blanca (Branta leucopsis). La població Bàltica hiverna cada cop més als Països Baixos.Bec de serra petit (Mergellus albellus), potser l’Anàtida més celebrada del viatge.Bec de serra gros (Mergus merganser).Àguila marina (Hieraatus albicilla)
Dia 3 Avui l’objectiu és visitar la famosa illa de Texel. Per 1 minut perdem el primer Ferry del que disposaven. Per un i únic moment no ens va agradar l’excelsa puntualitat holandesa! A les aigües properes al port es veuen morells d’ulls groc i diverses espècies de limícoles a les vores més sorrenques. Al pocs kilòmetres d’entrar a l’illa ens adonem de la màgia ornitològica d’aquest espai, a on es veuen grans grups d’oques de moltes espècies arreu, juntament amb estols mixtes de tords ala-rojos i grives cerdanes, a més d’incomptables grups de fredelugues.
En un dels prats localitzem un grup de més d’un centenar de cignes petits descansant plàcidament. Escanejant el grans grups d’oques podem veure grans estols d’oques rialleres grosses i oques de la tundra, mentre que les zones més properes al mar abunden les oques de collar i les oques de galta blanca, entre les quals apareix alguna oca de bec curt.
El mosaic de prats i aiguamolls, decorat amb les famoses ovelles de Texel fa que ja es puguin observar diferents espècies de limícoles i Anàtides. Després d’un regenerador cafè ens dirigim als famosos sistemes dunars a la cerca dels passeriformes típics d’aquests ambients. Una caminada per aquesta zona ens permet comparar la veu dels grassets de costa amb els de muntanya, fins que arribem a un estuari on passen volant un grupet de sit blancs poc abans de detectar un estol d’una trentena d’aloses banyudes alimentant-se de petites llavors. Amb elles passem una estona increïble veient com s’alimenten i van movent-se entre les dunes mentre gaudim d’uns agradables 12ºC.
La tarda comença a avançar i un bon plat de pasta ens serveix per recuperar energia i encarar el llarg transfer cap l’hotel que serà la referència per prospectar les regions de Zeeland i Nord Brabant.
Oca de collar (Branta bernicla), una de les oques més comuns a Texel.Oca de la tundra (Anser serrirostris) amb oques comunes (Anser anser).Oca de bec curt (Anser brachyrhynchus) amb oques rialleres grosses (Anser albifrons).Aloses banyudes (Eremophila alpestris)
Dia 4 La primera parada la fem per visitar els pòlders a on, de forma més o menys regular, hiverna una de les darreres espècies d’oques que ens manquen per veure al viatge: les oques rialleres petites. Desprès de prospectar els grans grups d’oques localitzem força amagats en grupet amb exemplars immadurs. En aquestes zones predominen els grups d’oques del Canadà, de galta blanca i les rialleres grosses.
Després d’observar aquesta espècie tant escassa ens dirigim cap les zones amb pòlders on es més fàcil cercar aus de caràcter més marí. Una continuada pluja ens acompanyarà la resta de la jornada, per això decidim prospectar zones visitables des del cotxe. Passem zones amb bons estols de garses de mar i becuts a peu de carretera i grups molt confiats d’oques de collar entre les quals detectem un exemplar molt fosc amb flancs blancs, una oca de collar de la subespècie nigricans, un divagant provinent de terres canadenques i resta del Nord del continent Nord-americà.
Passem per una zona on està l’únic grup de flamencs present en aquest país, i probablement provenen d’escapaments de zoològics centreeuropeus. Arribem a les famoses badies de Zeeland on hi ha grans grups de becs de serra mitjans molt actius pescant els abundants peixos de la zona, però mirant amb més detall els ocells a mitjana distància també veiem cabussons orelluts, un preciós mascle d’èider i ànecs negres. A les zones de roques de l’espigó es veuen bons grups de territs tres-dits i remena-rocs entre els quals es troben diversos territs foscos.
On trenquen les onades apareix de sobte un gran cap de mamífer, una foca grisa, posteriorment veiem un altre fins que al final detectem 3 exemplars a tocar de les roques, tot cercant refugi de les braves onades del mar. Amb aquests simpàtics mamífers arriba el capvespre i terminem una altra jornada ben profitosa.
Bec de serra mitjà (Mergus serrator)Foca grisa (Halychoerus gripus)Cabussó orellut (Podiceps auritus) al mar.
Dia 5.
El darrer matí del viatge el dediquem a cercar espècies que fins se’ns havien resistit, tot visitant zones rurals amb grans planes on aconseguim veure un grup de més de 100 cignes cantaires, aconseguint així veure totes les espècies de cignes del Paleàrtic Occidental amb l’afegitó del cigne negre provinent de poblacions asilvestrades que nien en certs punts de centre Europa.
Els mateixos camps també tenen grans densitat de llebres de gran mida, faisans i alguns rapinyaires com aligots comuns (alguns molt pàl·lids), xoriguers, esparvers, astors i arpelles pàl·lides comunes. Tornem a visitar zones del dia anterior amb millors condicions de llum on trobem una femella de morell buixot, una espècie cada cop més escassa als Països Baixos.
Els xisclets d’uns rasclons marquen el comiat a un gran viatge a on hem pogut observar 10 espècies diferents d’oques, els 3 becs de serra i els 3 cignes junt amb altres especialitats com els morells d’ulls grocs, buixots, ànecs glacials, àguiles marines, aloses banyudes, grassets de costa i territs foscos, amb el gran premi dels confiats ocells sedosos. Ja friso per tornar!!!
Overview: Our first tour to Eastern South Africa can be defined as a big success. Not only because of the 40+ endemics seen during the trip, with special mention to the extremely scarce Rudd’s Lark. We also scored many sought-after species, including some very tuff birds. Two species of Flufftail were seen, including the very elusive Buff-spotted. The tour enjoyed good weather conditions most of the days, despite an unusually cold episode while transfering from Kruger to Wakkerstroof, with temperatures collapsing as low as only 3ºC. This episode, combining low temperatures and rain, was up to three days long and we noticed dead Bee-eaters and Swallows during our stops. Despite this, the tour excelled in great sights and we also got some interesting mammals, even if we failed to find some top target mammals.
All images in this trip report by tour leader Carles Oliver and Joan Barat. All rights reserved.
Crested Barbet (Trachyphonus vaillantii) to start the report! Image by tour leader Carles Oliver
Day 1. After our commuter flights coming from different countries, all tour participants assembled in Johannesburg, where our local guide was waiting for us. It was a lovely afternoon, and after negotiating the metropolitan traffic, we put our way North in order to explore some interesting spots.
En route, we had some of the common birds in the area, including Long-crested Eagle, Steppe Buzzard, the superb Magpie Shrike, Grey Go-away-bird and some Namaqua Doves in flight. It was a sunny afternoon, and a service stop midway down our destination provided us with the firsts Cape White-eye, Blacksmith Lapwing, Black-winged Kites, Tawny-flanked Prinia and African Palm Swifts of the trip, plus the nice surprise of 2 Horus Swifts flying along with the common Little Swifts. This is a quite scarce bird, and a good adding for the trip!
Once arrived to our first proper birding stop, the sightings came as drops in a rainy day, and soon we enjoyed Blue Waxbill, Greater Sparrow, the tame Kalahari Scrub Robin, African Pipit and several lovely Scaly-feathered Weavers. It took us literally 30 seconds to find the first Short-clawed Lark, an obliging bird that offered excellent photo opportunities. The short grass plain where we found it was full of goodies, including Black-faced Waxbills, several Cape Sparrows, 2 Desert Cisticolas, the first of many Yellow-fronted Canary, Black-chested Prinia and 1 Greater Kestrel. We spent some extra time trying to find the often shy Pink-billed Lark, but we were unlucky, and after some time the Crowned Lapwings around became specially noisy, a sign of the sunset to come. Already moving to our accommodation, we had a fast stop to take a look to the first Familiar Chats and White-browed Sparrow-Weavers of the trip.
Our wonderful accommodation embraced the British colonial heritage with the mistery of a Jurassic Park cottage. What a place! After dinner, a fast check to the varanda produced really good looks into 1 African Wood Owl while a Buff-spotted Flufftail was singing along with the chorus of amphibians in the lake beside the lodge. A wonderful first day!
Short-clawed Lark (Certhilauda chuana), an endemic with a limited range. Image by tour leader Carles OliverArriving at sunset to our very lovely first accommodationAfrican Wood Owl (Strix woodfordii) was next to our accommodation
Day 2. First full day of birding of the trip. It was a sunny, warm morning in the hills around Magoebaskloof. As we headed out of our accommodation, a road stop was mandatory to enjoy some common birds including Cape Robin Chat, Forest Canary, Greater Striped Swallows, Dark-capped Warbler, African Stonechats and Swee Waxbills. It was a sunny morning and soon we were walking under the canopy of one of the few spots where the indigenous forests are still plentiful. Here we enjoyed up to 15 Cape Parrots flying, calling and feeding on some tall tress. Other good birds appearing here included Knysna Turaco, Steppe Buzzard and European Bee-eater. A short walk in the deepest of the jungle produced a very fine selection of forest specialties including Orange Ground Thrush, Narina Trogon, Square-tailed Drongo, and amazing views on Yellow-streaked Babbler along with other good birds such as White Cucckooshrike, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, White-starred Robin, Chorister Robin Chat, Barrett’s Warbler and an impressive African Sparrowhawk that was trying to pick up the breakfast in the forest.
The wonderful original habitat in the Magoebaskloof hillsides. Cape Parrot (Poicephalus robustus) showing the typical orange markings of the adult.Dark-capped Warblers (Iduna natalensis)White-starred Robin (Pogonocichla stellata)
After the forest, we visited one of the few spots for Magpie Mannikin in the area. Just arrived, we got the first of many views on Red-faced Cisticola and Black-collared Barbet, as well as Grey-tit Flycatcher and Red-chested & Amethyst Sunbirds. The Mannikins proved to be way more difficult than expected, but our patience was rewarded not only with great views on this superb bird, but also with the very first Cape Vulture of the trip!
Before lunch, we still had a stop in some open lands, where we enjoyed views on the very scarce Blue-spotted Wood Dove. This is a common bird in most of Eastern Africa, but with extremely slim populations in South Africa! Along with this gem, the place produced also the first of many Golden-breasted Buntings, Cardinal Woodpecker, Brown Snake Eagle and White-fronted Bee-eaters. A bridge nearby produced Mountain Wagtail, African Black Duck but, unfortunately, we couldn’t locate any African Finfoot.
After lunch, we went to check to very special nesting sites. In the first stop, a massive nest of African Crowned Eagle was waiting for us in a line of eucalyptus. After some great scope views on the massive eagle on its nest, we covered the short distance to the nesting area of a pair of Bat Hawks. After a bit of scanning, we got the pair of hawks quietly resting on a branch, waiting for the sunset to come. The perfect moment to catch bats!
After this unforgettable sight, we just headed back to the accommodation, where we made a stop to enjoy a bit more of the swamps beside it. Here we got excellent views on a flock of Cape Canaries, but also Cape Grassbird, Levaillant’s Cisticola, Little Rush Warbler, Little Sparrowhawk and a singing Red-chested Cuckoo singing only a few metres away from us.
Blue-spotted Wood-Dove (Turtur afer) is quite a scarcity in South Africa so we were really pleased to contact with this individual.Pin-tailed Wydah (Vidua macroura), always a stunnerThis pair of Bat Hawks (Macheiraphus alcinus) was considered as one of the best birds of the tour
Day 3. Our transfer day to Kruger happened in a misty morning. We woke up with the accommodation surrounded by thig fog. But not all were bad news. We had a small stroll around, covering the meadows down the accommodation, and at some point a Buff-spotted Flufftail started singing. Not a surprise, since during our first overnight we had at least three birds singing here. But this time the bird looked like singing closer. We went down to a place where we had a minimal view on the stream and the rank vegetation around, and then Carmine had a brief view on the bird moving along the tiny stream. Hearts on! We had a couple of really long minutes of wait (including an Orange Ground Thrush to came to drink water) and finally the bird appeared, at the beggining under the cover of a dead branch, but later we got a full view of the bird (and even a chance for a record shot) as the bird walk totaly in the open by crossing a grassy area! What an amazing sight!!
Buff-spotted Flufftail (Sarothrura elegans). We counted extremely lucky to see such a shy species! Image by tour participant Joan Barat.
With our hearts still beating hard for this incredible sight, we came back to the accommodation for a delicious breakfast before living the area in our way to Kruger National Park. As we left, an African Dusky Flycatcher came to the garden to say goodbye to our group. The short transfer to Kruger was not absent of interest. The weather cleared out as soon as living the mountains. Beyond some Southern Black Flycatchers in fences and gardens, the first of many African Haw-Eagle, we had the only one Booted Eagle of the trip, and a wonderful African Pygmy Kingfisher that briefly came to land beside the group as we were checking raptors in the sky.
Once in Kruger, it didn’t take us long to start enjoying the of the common good birds in the area, including lovely views on Crested Barbet, Diederick Cuckoo, Walhberg’s Eagles, White-bellied Sunbird, Blue Waxbill and Sabota Lark. Among the mammals, we got the firsts of many Impalas, Plains Zebras and African Elephant Bush. A fast stop to enjoy our packed lunch added Moking Cliff Chat, a passby Eurasian Golden Oriole and a pair of Kilsgpringers enjoying their rocky outcrop. Once arrived to our camp we also had excellent views on Golden-tailed Woodpecker, Natal Spurfowl, Arrow-marqued Babbler and Grey Go-away-bird to name a few. After a short break in our comfortable huts, we went out again. During a short game drive we got stunning views on Brown-hooded Kingfishers, Double-banded Sandgrouses, Red-crested Koorhan, Grey-rumped Swallow, Temminck’s Courser, amazing views on a Klaas’s Cuckoo display, and several more! Mammals here included firsts Hartebeest of the trip plus a surprising Honey Badger doing its way in through the woodlands. To end the game drive, we stop by a bridge, where we could see the firsts of may Hypopotamus, but also Saddle-billed Stork, Wood Sandpiper, Greater Painted Snipe and also a Bat Hawk that was waiting the first bats to appear around the river.
Back to the camp we prepare ourselves to go dinner, but the day was not done yet, and a crepuscular walk around our camp produced good views on both African Barred Owlet & African Scops Owl plus the very big surprise of a Greater Galago moving in the palm threes and that was really celebrated by the group.
Southern Red-billed Hornbill (Tockus rufirostris), a typical inhabitant of the mopane woodlandsCrested Barbet (Trachyphonus vaillantii), a common views inside Kruger campsitesGreen Woodhoopoe (Phoeniculus purpureus) collecting spide websA pair of Klipspringers (Oreotragus oreotragus) in one rocky outcropSabota Lark (Mirafra sabota), the commonest lark in most parts of Kruger National ParkTemminck’s Courser (Cursorior temminckii)Arrow-marked Babbler (Turdoides jardineii). Image by tour participant Joan Barat.Brown-hooded Kingfisher (Halcyon albiventris)African Barred Owlet (Glaucidium capense)
Day 4. This morning we enjoyed some birding in the camp, including Marico Flycatcher, Olive Bushshrike, Green-capped Camaroptera and Pearl-spotted Owlet before living South. Our transfer was dominated for the same species that the day before, but adding good views on Yellow-billed Hornbill, both Grey-backed & Chestnut-backed Sparrow Larks plus first views in other species including Green Woodhoopoe and fist views on Red-capped Lark and Kittlitz Plover.
A group of Spotted Hyaenas was lying next to the road, and Southern Giraffes were seen later to complement a good list of mammals. This day we had a brunch in one of the many lodges in Kruger, and the lunch overlooking the lake provide us with wonderful views not only of a 4 Elephants enjoying some water games, but also some interesting bird species inluding Mosque Swallow, Yellow-billed Stork, African Spoonbill, Great Spotted Cuckoo and even a Southern Pochard associated with the large flocks of White-faced Whistling Ducks. Large Nile Crocodiles were lying on the banks, but African Jacanas and Little Stints seem not aware of the danger.
The gardens of the lodges also proved to be extremely productive. We got here 6 Willow Warblers, and solid views on Green-winged Pytilias but also got extremelly close Jacobin and Klaas’s Cuckoos, with special mention to a Diederick Cuckoo perched only 2 metres away from us and the African Paradise Flycatchers attending its nest.
The afternoon was windy, and we checked a pair of bridges around our accommodation, adding more views on African Openbills, Saddle-billed Storks, Great White Egrets and Woolly-necked Storks to our day list, but the best of afternoon was the brilliant views on a Giant Kingfisher by the van, and the only one Osprey of the tour!
Red-crested Korhaan (Lophotis ruficrista)Little Bee-eater (Merops pusillus), a common view on the Mopane woodlands. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.White-fronted Bee-eater (Merops bullockoides)Burchell’s Coucal (Centropus burchellii)Magpie Shrike (Lanius melanoleucos)Diederik Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx caprius)Partially leucistic African Scops Owl (Otus senegalensis)Levaillant’s Cuckoo (Clamator levaillantii)Southern Giraffe (Giraffa giraffa)
Day 5. Leaving our accommodation, we tranfered through the Mopane woodlands with several Long-billed Crombecs, Chinspot Batises and Black-backed Puffbacks seen but also with a lovely pair of Black Cuckooshrike moving in the woods. Moving South, we crossed a massive landscape of woodlands, with several White-backed Vultures and Bateleurs soaring the sky along with the less common Lappet-faced Vultures. From a outlook point above Olifants River, an endless ondulation of Mopane could be seen, florished with the long necks of the many Giraffes around. Around the river, some Hippopotamus where feeding, and the river itself provided us with the very firsts White-crowned Lapwing of the trip.
While enjoying our generous brunch other interesting species appear including Black Stork, White-throated Robin Chat and a pair of African Hawk-Eagles circling. Our drive South extended still for a pair of hours, enjoying Red-necked Korhaan but also Waterbucks and Nyalas. But the longest stop was devoted to the first pride of Lions of the tour. This time, there at least 3 females and 4 cubs of different ages, so it was easy to guess that these females were in charge of all the cubs in the pride. As expected in the middle of the day, the Lions were not very active, but one of the females gave us a wonderful walk out of the shade.
By lunch time we arrived to our new accommodation, still well inside Kruger National Park. A short walk around the lodge produced excellent views on a flock of Brown-headed Parrots roosting only a few metres above our heads. But the walk produced much more, including Golden-tailed Woodpcker but also Orange-breasted Bushshrike and the first Burnt-necked Eremomela, Grey-backed Camaroptera & Jameson’s Firefinch of the tour.
After some midday break, we left the camp to do some game drive. Amidst the large plains, small parades of Elephants were feeding, with very scenic light. Birding was quiet but still got distant bu nice views on a nesting pair of White-headed Vultures. At sunset, a Black-bellied Bustard stole the show and displayed only a few metres away from our van. What a wonderful way to end the tour!
Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill (Tockus leucomelas)Double-banded Sandgrouse (Pterocles bicinctus)Red-billed Oxpecker (Buphagus erythrorhynchus) on a Cape Buffalo.Lovely male Greater Kudu (Tragelaphus strepsiceros)Giant Kingfisher (Megaceryle maxima) posed only 2 meters away from our vehicle!Always special when the first Lions (Panthera leo) of the trip appear!Brown-headed Parrots (Poicephalus cryptoxanthus) were roosting in low branches!Golden-tailed Woodpecker (Campethera abingoni)A nice tusker exploring the grasslands. Please note the Lilac-breasted Roller! Image by tour participant Joan Barat.Black-bellied Bustard (Lissotis melanogaster) beside the road to end a wonderful day!
Day 6. Our morning could not start better. An alliance of 3 male Lions lying on the tarmac, giving each other morning salutations and attentions. And roaring. Roaring only 5 metres away from the van, making sure that we were all well awake! We didn’t need any second coffee that day. That was for sure!
This day was basically devoted to contact with some grassland specialists. The day was calm and sunny, and it looked like full of activity. The first hour of the day produced good views on Kori Bustard, but also on Flappet & Rufous-napped Larks plus several Zitting Cisticolas. But today was one of the longest transfers in the tour, and so we kept moving South, enjoying several of the common birds in the area but also nice views on Southern Ground Hornbills. A lovely bird hide produced good views on Striated Herons but also on the fists Brown-crowned Tchagras and Brubrus of the tour. Black-crowned Night Heron was also a good adding to our list! Another good stop was made to check some raptors in the sky. Beyond the common Walhberg’s Eagles, we got also good views on a Martial Eagle that was unnoticed by the tour leaders as we were checking the many swifts and swallows in the sky.. It was a mistake, and who found the eagle could not resist to remind us about for the next ten days 🙂
Not far from our final destination, a large parade of Elephants gave us the change to contact with the only 2 Bennett’s Woodpeckers of the tour! By the time that we arrived to our accommodation is was windy and cold. But a short walk around the Skukuza Camp still produced some goodies including White-browed Robin Chat, the first Sombre Greenbul of the trip, Black-collared Barbet, Red-faced Mousebirds, Green-backed Camaroptera, and Little Sparrowhawk.
A very impressive way to start any day! Image by tour participant Joan Barat.One of three males seen before breakfast.All along Kruger there are a number of wonderful lookouts. Lilac-breasted Roller (Coracias caudatus), a really common view in the woodlandsBlack Scimitarbill (Rhinopomastus aterrimus)A superb shot on a Hamerkop (Scopus umbretta) about to shallow a small fish. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.Brubru (Nialus afer)Secretarybird (Sagittarius serpentarius) patrolling its hunting territory.Wahlberg’s Eagle (Aquila wahlbergi), the commonest eagle in the area.Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis) Southern Black Tit (Melaniparus niger)Black-collared Barbet (Lybius torquatus)This Little Sparrowhawk (Accipiter minullus) appeared in our camp almost at dawn.
Day 7. Our morning around Skukuza was marked by the strong wind. Temperatures were low, with a maximum of only 18ºC, but most of the day was below 15ºC. Our morning game drive was not extremely productive, but we still got good views on the always wonderful Violet-eared Waxbill. Black Scimitarbill, Crested Francolin and Brubru were other interesting sight before having one of the top sights of the trip. Along the morning we also got the only large parck of Cape Buffalos that we got inside the Kruger National Park, and we got lucky that they were joined by some Yellow-billed Oxpeckers, a species that has recently colonised the area from the North.
A massive Leopard male was sitting by a track. When we arrived, there 4 other cars enjoying the views on the big cat. It is not surprising to see Leopards right by the road, but we had a quite extraordinary bonus track. Only a few moments after we arrived, two Warthogs were seen running away, tails up only a few metres away from the Leopard. In between, a small collector of rain was under the road. The small pipe was not of major interest, bu suddenly the Leopard when inside the pipe, and screams came out of the pipe. It was clear that a small Warthog was inside. During the next minute we had a full cacophony of screams, slugs and snarls, ending in a complete silence. It was obvious than the fight was off, and Leopard was enjoying the meal inside the pipe. We decided to wait a bit longer, and after 40 minutes of wait only 2 cars were there. At the end, the massive male came out of the pipe full of blood and with evident wounds. For the next 10 minutes, we enjoyed great views on the cat, only 4 metres away from the van. It was exhausted and dirty, but became one of the most extraordinary mammal sights during the tour.
In the afternoon we stayed in the lodge. It was really windy and cold, so we decided to work some specialties in the area. We were lucky and we had great views on Bearded Scrub Robin, Red-chested Cuckoo, African Green Pigeon and African Goshawk, that was new for the trip.
The always impressive Southern Ground Hornbill (Bucorvus leadveateri)Blue Waxbill (Uraeginthus angolensis)This massive male Leopard (Panthera pardus) gave us some impressive views right after killing a Warthog. A very tame Bearded Scrub Robin (Cercotrichas quadrivirgata) right by our vehicle.Violet-backed Starling (Cinnyricinclus leucogaster)
Day 8. During this day, the temperature started a long collapse, ending the day with only 6ºC, very cloudy sky and poor light. But the morning started sunny and uite warm, and our transfer South produced a long list of goodies. Even before leaving our lodge we enjoyed some Trumpeter Hornbills, and during the morning a number of stops produced great views on a number of goodies. Black Cuckoo but also the often elusive Grey-headed Bushshrike and Bearded Woodpecker were all new for the trip, and Bearded Scrub Robin and Southern Black Tits offered great looks. Our brunch stop offered far away views on 4 African Skimmers but, in addition, we got the first Terrestrial Brownbuls and Southern Boubou of the trip plus obliging Chinspot Batis, Cardinal Woodpecker, Scarlet-chested Sunbird and Grey-tit Flycatcher. As the day advanced, the weather became more colder and windy. A fast stop was made in a lodge in our way to add Crowned Hornbill and Lesser Honeyguide, but after this the bird activity declined and as we approached the limit of the park. It was 15:00 but the light was already limited. Here decided to explore some ponds immediately outside Kruger National Park. In our way out, female Lion and Leopard crossed the road only 300 metres away from each other!
Despite the cloudy weather it became really productive, as we got the first White-backed Ducks and African Swamphens of the trip, the only one Allen’s Gallinule of the tour and a lovely Buffy Pipit walking in front of the van. Other interesting species here included Collared Pratincole (hearts stopped for a while as the bad light conditions made us think on Black-winged Pratincole!), Purple Heron, Grosbeak Weaver and Collared Widowbird.
As we crossed back inside Kruger National Park, a fast final stop was made at the bridge over the Crocodile River. Here we were fascinated by the good variety of birds including Saddle-billed & Holly-necked Storks, Giant Kingfisher, 3 Black-backed Night Herons, 3 Striated Herons but also Wood Sandpipers and Greater Painted Snipe. All of this while Hypopotamus and Bush Elephants were having were hanging around along with some majestic Watterbucks and, of course, Nile Crocodiles.
From here we just covered the short distance to our lodge. In they way, we were lucky to find the first White Rhinoceros of the trip, but unfortunately we only got great views on its but. Once in the lodge, we scanned for some birds, but the very low temperature made not possible and the only interesting bird seen was a Black-headed Oriole and a flock of Red-billed Oxpeckers coming to roost in a dead tree.
Nile Crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus)Gorgeous Bushshrike (Telophorus viridis) well hidden inside a thicket.Red-faced Cisticola (Cisticola erythrops) inhabits dense thickets, often near water.Brown-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra australis).Southern Boubou (Laniarius ferrugineus), another great endemic for the list of the tour!Chinspot Batis (Batis molitor)Trumpeter Hornbill (Bycanistes bucinator).
Day 9. A cold and rainy day. This day we left Kruger behind to start the most exciting part of the tour. Our way to Wakkestroof was cold and rainy, and we had little chances for birding.
Still, the plains around Wakkestroof are always providing good surprises and a number of short stops provided us with the only Greater Flamingoes of the trip along with Red-knobbed Coots and Southern Pochards. Here Red-capped Larks were common, and along with them we had several Southern Ant-eating Chat, Spike-heeled Lark, 2 lovely Blue Korhaans that flew off very close from the road, some distant flocks of Blue Cranes, a memorable Lanner Falcon, and Carmine did again to find the only one Black-winged Lapwing of the trip!
Getting close to Wakkerstroof, the fields start to become smaller and more hilly, and here is where we saw 2 of the very few Springboks of the trip along with Jackal Buzzard under the rain.
Before going to our accommodation to look for shelter of the rain, we had a brief stop in a large lagoon South of Wakkerstroof. Here we had excellent views on African Snipes while feeding in the out along with Squacco & Purple Herons and several African Swamphens.
Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus)Lanner Falcon (Falco biarmicus)Long-tailed Widowbird (Euplectes progne), a very common view around Wakketrof
Day 10. A new early start to explore the amazing plains and hillsides around Wakkestroof. The weather was cloudy but not as cold as the day before, and temperatures went up to 16ºC as the clouds were breaking out during the morning. But the most important is that we had no rain at all. Our very first stop was devoted to explore the wetland immediately South of the town. As the they before, the area was filled with Common Moorhens, some African Swamphens and a few herons, including a lovely adult Purple Heron. Among them, we were lucky to find an African Rail, that provided long views as fed in the out along with Black Crake. Leaving the wetland behind, we faced the grassy hills North of Bakkestroof, in search of some specialties living in the bushland. There we were lucky to contact with the often elusive Bush Blackcap along with the also endemics Drakensberg Prinia, Fiscal Flycatcher, Cape Canary, Cape Grassbird and Bokmakeire. Some Southern Bald Ibis were flying around, and their calls were a nice complement to the sight.
Back to the plains we started looking for some grasslands specialities, and soon we had good scope views on Denhman’s Bustards, but also the common Southern Ant-eating Chat. A fast stop was necessary to admire the often secretive Coqui Francolin feeding and walking in the grasslands, and not far from there we had good views with the scarce Orange-bellied Waxbills feeding in the short grass along with the much commoner Cape Longclaws. White-bellied Bustards, with an endemic (an endangered) race in Southern Africa, proved harder to find in the grasslands, but our perseverance was granted with excellent views on 2 males moving together only a few meters away from our vehicle..
We enjoyed our brunch by a bridge hosting a colony of South African Cliff Swallows. Our itinerary through the amazing hillsides around Wakkerstroom went on, and a new stop was made by a rocky outcrop, where we enjoyed really good looks on both African Rock & Nicholson’s Pipits. Only a few hundred of metres beyond we were walking through one of the very last known spots for the very rare Rudd’s Lark. Here, the local knowledge was essential to locate one of this scarcities, and the whole group enjoyed solid views on one bird as it was feeding in the short grass of the hill side. In our way down, we enjoyed good views on both Wing-snapping and the uncommon Pale-crowned Cisticolas along with the commoner Cape Longclaw and Red-capped Lark. A further short walk in the area also produced other interesting specialities such as Sentinel Rock Thrush, Eastern Long-billed Lark and the often elusive Yellow-breasted Pipit.
Coqui Francolin (Peliperdix coqui), a shy inhabitant of heterogenous grasslands.Southern Anteater Chat (Myrmecocichla formicivora)Southern Bald Ibis (Geronticus calvus)Part of our group in their way to the Rudd’s Lark place.Rudd’s Lark (Heteromirafra ruddi). Excuses the poor quality. We never went close to avoid any disturbanceSpike-heeled Lark (Chersomanes albofasciata)
Leaving the hills, we came down to the plains to spend some time in a number of fields. Again some scanning was required was our dedication was granted with good views on Pink-billed & Eastern Clapper Larks. Here we also had 3 Blue Korhaans and 5 Greater Kestrels that were chasing the very common African Pipits and Widowbirds in the area. The very last short walk of the day was to check a moist corner of the endless plain, and once more our faith was granted with good looks on at least 4 Marsh Owls that were roosting in the rank vegetation!
But our day was not over yet! Back to town, we had a fast stop by a pond and we were all surprised to hear a Red-chested Flufftail calling quite close! So, we decided to try to see the bird, and less than one minute later we were all astonished to see the bird squeaking out of the vegetation!!! It had three small, fast walks in front of our group, right before disappearing in tall grass! An amazing way to end a very special day around Wakkerstroom..
Day 11. After enjoying a wonderful home made breakfast in our B&B accommodation, we moved out as the mist started to clear out. A mandatory stop in the Bakkerstroom lake was made, and we were granted not only with great views on African Swamphens, Squacco Herons and Lesser Swamp Warblers to name a few, but also with the only one Red-throated Wryneck of the trip. A short walk along the reed bed produced great views on a group of 4 Clawless Otters playing and fishing inside the water, and our 2 Red-chested Flufftails started singing as we got inside the vehicle. A wonderful way to say goodbye to Bakkerstroom!
The transfer to Mkuze was smooth, but still quite productive in terms of birds. Temperatures were again going above 20ºC, and the clear, blue sky made us all feel happy. A pair of fast stops produced flying African Harrier-Hawk and Secretary Bird (always great to see them in flight!), Wailing Cisticola and a very unexpected Black Stork!
After having a great lunch in our magnificent lodge around Mkuze, we had a gentle walk around for the rest of the afternoon. It was rather windy, but we still pick up a number of new birds for the trip including Purple-breasted Sunbird, Dark-capped (formerly Forest) Weaver, the very smart Black-throated Wattle-Eye & White-eared Barbet plus wonderful views on Striped Kingfisher, Purple-crested Turaco and Burnt-necked Eremomela.
The often elusive African Snipes (Gallinago nigripennis) provided with several sightings!African Marsh Harrier (Circus ranivorus) patrolling the reedbedsLevaillant’s Cisticola (Cisticola tinniens)Red-throated Wryneck (Jynx ruficollis)Black-throated Wattle-eye (Platysteria peltata)Purple-crested Turaco (Tauraco porphyreolophus)
Day 12. Full morning birding in Mkuze. The morning started fresh and calm, a perfect weather to enjoy birds. Our very first stop was in the outskirts of the Mkuze Reserve, where the lovely indigenous forest provided good views on White-eared Barbet and Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, while Red-fronted Tinkerbird was new for the trip. Once inside the park we enjoyed Brown-crowned Tchagra and Crested Guineafowl, and a Lesser Spotted Eagle flying over was also new for the trip. Lovely views on Magpie Shrike were added to the list of the day, and fast-flying flock of White-crested Helmetshrikes was a nice complement to the common herds of Impalas and Nyalas. A few yards beyond, a wonderful African Emerald Cuckoo was singing by the road, and we took advantage of this to enjoy some unforgettable views on such a great bird!
A superb African Emerald Cuckoo (Crysococcyx cupreus) was literally waiting for us in an exposed branch. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.
We continued scanning the low vegetation, expecting to find the very elusive Twinspots living here. After very slow driving, a small flock of them started calling in one side of the van. At that point, a massive African Crowned Eagle flew off from a branch only 15 metres away from the van, but our attention was fully concentrated in the dark undergrowth. At our left, an African Broadbill started calling, probably displaying quite close, but our eyes kept looking down in the vegetation. Our perseverance was well rewarded, and only a pair of minutes later a female Pink-throated Twinspot showed out, very low. It was feeding on the ground but, at some point, it jumped up into a branch right in front of our eyes, immediately followed for a wonderful male! The Broadbill looked like singing closer now, but we were still concentrated in these small gems, that were now preening on the branch, only for our eyes (and cameras). This Twinspot is an endemic bird to Southern Africa, with very thin populations, and only found in Southern Mozambique, Eswatini and the North-East of the KwaZulu-Natal province in South Africa. Very happy for this great sight, but the Broadbill was still singing in display, and very close. A short drive of ten metres, and some manoeuvre and a wonderful African Broadbill was displaying right to our window! The bird, that normally displays high in the canopies, was singing and performing only 2 metres high, and probably less than 10 metres from the car! For the next 5 minutes, we all enjoyed a memorable moment of our lives. Some extra manoeuvre was necessary so every side of the van could have a proper view on the bird, and the Broadbill stole the show for some extra minutes!
Pink-throated Twinspot (Hypargus margaritatus) gave our group a superb sight. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.
After such a ecstatic moment, we arrived to our breakfast spot, a lovely pond with a hide. Beyond 2 Leopard Turtles drinking water, really few was on the pond, but the bushland nearby was different. Here we got excellent looks on Rudd’s Apalis, Neergaard’s Sunbird, Acacia Pied Barbet and a rather unexpected Yellow-breasted Bush Petronia, all of them new for the tour! Once our breakfast was enjoyed, we went out of the Nature Reserve to look for some birds living in the riverside forest. It didn’t take long to find a lovely Green Malkoha singing high in the trees, and our walk around produced several Trumpeter Hornbills and the only one Scaly-throated Honeyguide of the trip. But everything came down the frame when a superb Pel’s Fishing Owl came our from the deepest part of the forest, and stop for only a pair of seconds in the canopy, looking at us with its unforgettable eyes! Unfortunately everything happened too fast, and the owl flew off again to be lost in the dense vegetation. We still spend half an hour trying to relocate the bird, but it didn’t happen.. Back to the vehicle, the group celebrated the views on one of the most sought-after targets of the trip!
From here, we were out to explore a number of ponds. It was nice to see good flocks of African Pygmy Geese (probably 50+) but also White-backed Ducks, African Fish Eagle, Malachite Kingfisher,Caspian Tern and a lovely male Greater Painted Snipe (the third of the trip!) along with Curlew Sandpiper, Hottentot Teal, Goliath Heron and several more.
Our last stop before the wind came strong, was to explore a lovely plain of short grass. Here we got great views on several Senegal Lapwings but also African Spoonbills, African Jacanas and the only one Black Egret of the trip!
Day 13. After a short stroll in the gardens of our accommodation, we headed to the coast to spend the morning in iSimangaliso Wetland Park. Here we were surprised by the good number of White-backed Ducks and African Jacanas. The many small ponds along our way had every one its own Long-tailed Cormorant, many times joined by Intermediate Egret (the African form of this heron has been recently renamed as Yellow-billed Heron as the species has been split into 4 different species). A pair of Black-chested Snake Eagle was patrolling the coastal plains, and small flocks of Collared Pratincole were in their way to the bigger ponds. A pair of Red-winged Cisticolas provided us with good views right before we step on a Lesser Moorhen feeding right by the tarmac lane! To find this South African rarity, we were kindly directed by a lovely pair of common birdwatchers. Greetings to them!
A bit beyond, a new South African scarcity was waiting for us: a Rufous-bellied Heron was feeding in a rather distant corner of a pond. We kept driving along the Park with good views on Waterbucks before stopping in one of the many lookouts along the way. Here it is possible to do a short walk, a nice way to stretch our legs that was granted with really close views on the very elusive Brown Scrub Robin and a fast but solid view on 1 Southern Banded Snake Eagle while Narina Trogon and Rudd’s Apalis were calling nearby.
The often shy Brown Scrub Robin (Cercotrichas signata) did a pair of gentle walk on the tarmac for our group! Image by tour participant Joan Barat.
After such a great stop, we just drove out the Park, but before we had a rather unexpected stop, since a White Rhinoceros was feeding 100 metres away from the main lane, and we all enjoyed good views on this peaceful, endangered giant!
A lovely lunch by the beach was an excellent introduction for the last stop of the day. It was already a windy afternoon, but this was not going to stop us. Since September, a Saunder’s Tern had been staying in a river mouth close to Saint Lucia, and we were determined to add such a mega to the list of the tour. Some walk in the beach was required, and once agreed with all the tour participants, we walk down to the beach to look for the bird. Soon, we were contacting with some White-fronted Plovers, LesserCrested Terns and Grey Plovers. 3 African Oystercatchers were fiding in the beach along with Sanderlings and some Little Terns were resting on the beach along with other species. We scanned once and over, but the bird was not there. The wind peaked up, and the sand was heating us even stronger. But every dot of sand in our shoes was worth it when the Saunder’s Tern appeared flying over the Lesser Crested Terns, and stop next to them, allowing everybody in our small group to have great views on this great rarity for the country!
Happy with this unexpected adding, we came back to our accommodation to enjoy some rest and a very nice dinner.
White-backed Duck (Thalassornis leuconotus)This unexpected subadult Lesser Moorhen (Paragallinula angulata) was one of the surprises of the day!We considered ourselves very lucky to connect with the very scarce Southern Banded Snake Eagle (Circaetus fasciolatus)Yellow-throated Longclaw (Macronyx croceus)Southern Brown-throated Weaver (Ploceus xanthopterus), a species with a very limited range. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.
Day 14. Early morning walk immediately around our accommodation in Saint Lucia. The wind went off, allowing us a great morning of birding where we enjoyed some of the specialties living in the area including Grey Sunbird, Red-capped Robin Chat and the lovely Woodwart’s Batis. An African Cuckoo-Hawk briefly appeared up in the canopy, allowing us short but good views, and the localised Green Twinspot also appeared for us. But the best surprise of the morning walk was a flock of 5 Grey Waxbills showing right in the path in front of us! We could not believe what we saw!! The last but not the last, Livingstone Turaco proved harder than we thought, and didn’t show properly until the very end of the walk.
After breakfast, we spent the rest of the morning in game drive in iSimangaliso Park, where we got the best views on Cape Buffalo during the trip, plus lovely views on Mountain Reedbucks and 4 White Rhinoceros!
From here we just drove South to our next accommodation, arriving a pair of hours before dinner.
During the day we saw 4 different White Rhinoceros (Ceratotherium simum), including this “horned” male. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.Often underrate, Cape Buffalos (Syncerus caffer) are wonderful beasts!Mountain Reedbucks (Redunca fulvorufula) in a serious fightDisa spp. One of the 224 species of Orchid found in Kwazulu-Nalta province.
Day 15. Final morning of birding to try to connect with some specialties living around Eshowe. Our first stop was at the Dhinza Forest Parc, a relict area of protected primary forest. Walking along the boardwalk, we were welcomed by some African Olive Pigeons, Little Sparrowhawk and Grey Cuckoochrike catching the first morning light, and as the sun raised we could heard the firsts Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeons singing out of the canopy. It took some minutes, but finally everybody in the group had excellent scope views on the bird. Back to the ground, our local guide fastly connected with one of the very few African Ground Thrushes living in the area. A nervous Lemon Dove showed briefly, but a male Blue Duiker didn’t stole the show and posed for us very long, and only a few metres away, as we were moving out of the reserve.
Sun raising at Dinza Forest Reserve. Spotted Ground Thrush (Geokichla guttata) captured while feeding in the forest ground. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.Blue Duiker (Philantomba monticola), a globally threatened species. This male was a nice surprise in our forest walk. Image by tour participant Joan Barat.
From this gorgeous spot, we drove to the very last forest hosting Green Barbet in Southern Africa. In our way, Carmine saw a Buttonquail jumping from the way of the tires, and we took the chance, step out of the car, and everybody in the group had a chance to see the Black-rumped Buttonquail flying away from us.. Great!
Once in the forest, it didn’t take long to see at least 4 of these extremely endangered bird while feeding on figs. We were lucky, since this species can be hard to find!
Back to the prairies, we still had a Martial Eagle flying above the hills, and a pair of Southern Ground Hornbills feeding beside the car. Befores starting heading to the airport, a very last stop allowed us to connect with a Striped Pipit that our local guide kept in the fridge for us. A wonderful way to end the trip!!
The best we could get from the Green Barbets (Stactolaema olivacea) while feeding in the canopyThe amazing primary forest home of the very last Green Barbet population in South Africa.
Resum general: El nostre primer tour a la illa de Xipre ha estat organitzat per gaudir dels ocells endèmics de l’illa així com del començament de la migració de tardor pels ocells de l’est del Western paleàrtic. El tour ha estat marcat per la calor, però malgrat les altes temperatures el pardaleig ha estat prou bo, amb bons números d’espècies migradores i bones observacions dels endemismes. Tot amb tot, molt content per com ha anat el viatge, amb els tres principals endèmics: el tallarol de Xipre, el xot de Xipre i el còlit de Xipre. Tots tres s’han observat bé, a més dels futurs possibles nous endèmics. Sumant a la llista d’espècies emblemàtiques com el francolí coll-negre, el corriol de leschenault, territ becadell, hortolà cendrós, tallarol esparverenc o la perdiu de chukar. Fins i tot sumant dues rareses locals com l’estornell rosat i l’alció d’Esmirna. En resum, gran viatge a una meravellosa illa i amb ganes de tornar-hi la propera primavera!
Dia 0 – viatge
El grup arriba ja ben entrada la nit del dia 25 a Larnaca en vol directe des de Barcelona però tot i així ens dona temps a sentir, al pàrquing de l’aeroport, el primer ocell del viatge: un torlit.
Dia 1
Ens aixequem una mica més tard del que tocaria per poder descansar i recuperar energia. A les immediacions de l’hotel i entorn de Larnaka, comencem a contactar amb espècies típiques de l’illa com són la cornella emmatellada (molt abundant), tórtores del Senegal (ocell en clara expansió), el primer aligot rogenc del viatge i una espectacular fredeluga d’esperons aprofitant la verdor de les rotondes de trànsit, cada vegada més urbà.
El plàning del 1er matí és passar la jornada a Cape Greko, famós punt cap a l’est de l’illa on es poden detectar gran nombre de “targets” del viatge però alhora punt de concertació de migrants.
La primera aturada, a un sector amb conreus envoltats de zones de màquia, ja ens aporta escorxadors aturats als cables, trenques (coincidim amb dates de bona entrada d’aquesta espècie a Xipre) a la capçada d’un arbre i els primers capsigranys emmascarats del tour.
Escorxador – Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio). Imatge de Salvador ParreuCapsigrany emmascarat – Masked Shrike (Lanius nubicus). Imatge de Salvador Parreu.
Són abundants les bosquetes pàl·lides orientals i els tallarols xerraires, però no sempre fàcils de veure amb claredat. Però si un ocell és complicat d’observar, és el tallarol de Xipre. Diversos exemplars escoltats a molt curta distancia però que generalment només es poden gaudir fent petits i curts volts entre els arbustos.
Aquí també s’escolten diverses perdius chukars i un llunyà francolí negre.
La temperatura ambiental puja dràsticament i a les zones amb menys vegetació del cap i petits camps del voltant descobrim diversos còlits de Xipre i 3 còlits isabelins, mentre un grup migrant de pelicans comuns passa en migració a poca alçada junt amb alguns rapinyaires com una arpella comuna, un aligot vesper i un milà negre.
Còlit isabelí – Isabelline Wheatear (Oenanthe isabellinus). Imatge de Salvador Parreu.
Pelicans comuns – Great White Pelican (Pelecanus onocrotalus). Imatge del tour líder Sergi Sales.
Després d’un extraordinari dinar iranià fem una visita a l’Oroklini Lake, a on gaudim de la primera zona humida del viatge i a on ràpidament detectem un magnífic territ becadell, una de les espècies més buscades pel grup! També un gran nombre de fredelugues esperonades i altres limícoles i, entre ells, dues sisetes.
Acabem la llarga jornada a unes petites llacunes litorals on no es veu un gran nombre d’ocells.
Territ becadell (Limicola falcinellus) i fedeluga d’esperons (Vanellus spinosus). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
Siseta – Marsh Sandpiper (Tringa stagnatilis). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
Dia 2
Per intentar aprofitar les hores amb temperatures més moderades, ens aixequem ben aviat i ràpidament estem al camp, visitant en primer lloc unes petites basses, les Bishop Pools, però el fet de que fos diumenge va fer que la zona tingués obert l’accés per visitar l’església però no pas l’espai natural. Finalment accedim caminant observant més tallarols i bosquetes migrants fins arribar a la bassa on hi ha algunes espècies aquàtiques. La sorpresa arriba al moment de tornar a agafar el vehicle, ja que a la capçada d’un arbre mort veiem un jove d’estornell rosat el qual no el podem gaudir massa estona ja que el pas d’un falcó de la reina i diversos tudons el fan volar i malauradament no el podem relocalitzar. Es tracta d’una espècie molt escassa a l’illa, amb observacions només puntuals. Al llarg del pas postnupcial es veu algun exemplar immadur.
Fem una breu aturada per esmorzar desprès de fer un primer intent a la llacuna d’Akrotiri per la grua damisel·la.
Amb forces recuperades gràcies a l’esmorzar, anem cap l’oest i fem una aturada a Kensington Cliffs , escenari espectacular on podem veure diversos falcons marins fent acrobàcies just davant nostre en un entorn fantàstic.
Falcó de la reina – Eleonora’s Falcon (Falco eleonorae). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
D’aquí anem a una petita zona humida per gaudir del nostre picnic. A la bassa apareix un rascletó però malauradament només es deixa veure breument. La zona és rica en diversitat ja que a més d’aus aquàtiques també es veuen rapinyaires, trenques…i grans grups de pardals de passa. Aquí també se sent el reclam d’una cuereta citrina que, malauradament no es deixa veure.
Sota un sol de justícia continuem cap a la península de Pafos. L’bjectiu principal és el corriol de Leschenaut però malauradament el passeig marítim en obres al costat de la zona dels corriols està en obres i això ens obliga a entrar al nucli arqueològic annex. Després de 3 hores llarguíssimes de buscar i intentar tindre llocs amb bona visibilitat, aconseguim detectar aquest mític limícol provinent dels llacs salats de Turquia. En concret 2 exemplars adults que fa dies que es veuen per la zona i un 3er exemplar nou, de 1er hivern. Cervesa ben freda per celebrar l’observació.
Corriol de Leschenault – Greater Sand Plover (Charadrius leschenaulti). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
Al vespre ens acompanya un ornitòleg local per optimitzar la cerca d’aus nocturnes. El primer que veiem és un parell de mussols comuns. Posteriorment, a un penya-segat, sentim dues òlibes molt actives, però continuem sense rastre de l’espècie més buscada, i no és fins al tercer intent que aconseguim escoltar i veure diversos xots xipriotes. Simultàniament un enganyapastors acaba de completar el paisatge sonor d’aquella màgica nit.
Xot de Xipre – Cyprus Scops Owl (Otus cyprius). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
Fem un excel·lent sopar en una taberna grega i cap a dormir que és mitjanit i avui han estat moltes hores seguides de birding!!
Matinada per prospectar la mítica zona de muntanya de Troödos. Allà trobem la fresqueta de la muntanya, ja que en un moment hem pujat a 600m de desnivell, i gaudim d’una temperatura sorprenentment agradable al llarg de tot el matí.
Només baixar del cotxe ens trobem envoltats pels tres dels targets de la zona: la mallerenga petita xipriota, la subespècie local de raspinell comú (totes dues candidates per a esdevenir espècies separades de les formes continentals) i el trencapinyes, ocell que del qual també s’està estudiant la taxonomia. La breu passejada ens permet veure a plaer i fotografiar aquestes espècies alhora que s’escolten contínuament els reclams en vol dels trencapinyes. Sembla que ha estat una molt bona de temporada de cria per a l’espècie. Finalment, s’aconsegueixen fer bones observacions de la quarta espècie objectiu: el gaig de la subespècie xipriota. Un bon ventall de possibles futurs splits! També podem gaudir i retratar a plaer un magnífic exemplar de còlit de Xipre mentre un falciot pàl·lid ens fa acrobàcies en un curiós vol baix entre els pins.
Mallerenga petita xipriota – Cyprus Coal Tit (Periparus ater cypriotes). Imatge de Sanvador Parreu.Trencapinyes comú (Loxia curvirostra). Imatge de Sergi SalesGaig de Xipre – Cyprus Jay (Garrulus glandarius glazneri). Imatge de Salvador Parreu.
Contactem amb el reviewer local d’Ebird, el Colin Richards, que molt amablement s’ofereix a acompanyar-nos al seu local patch, al sector d’Agia Varvara, i després a Anarita Park. Ja havíem prospectats totes dues zones en jornades anteriors però gaudim de millor observacions en algunes espècies i fins it tot en sumem alguna de nova. Després del cafè frappe de rigor (gran descobriment), anem cap a Germasogeia Reservoir, una petita zona humida i de vegetació de garriga molt propera al nostre hotel. La forta ventada dificulta la detecció d’espècies però tot i així trobem algunes de les espècies més comuns en migració d’aquestes dates i, entre mig de innumerables reclams de tallarol de capnegre (cada vegada més abundant a l’illa) sentim diversos tallarols de Xipre dels quals només fem un bona observació d’una femella. I com a colofó final, un parell de magnífics hortolans cendrosos es deixen veure al marge de la carretera.
Dia 4
Una vegada vistos la majoria dels objectius del viatge, intentem cerca noves espècies i millorar les observacions d’alguns ocells, per això matinem per arribar amb les primeres llums al Greek Cape. Des del cotxe detectem un tallarol emmascarat oriental, més contrastat que el nostre tallarol, això ens fa baixar del cotxe per viure un dels moment més màgics del viatge, on desenes de petits ocells migrants semblava que moguessin els matolls on s’alimentaven. Gaudim d’un autèntic festival de tallarols: l’esparverenc que es deixar retratar de forma notable, el xerraire, el capnegre, el de Xipre, l’emmascarat oriental i el trencamates!! Sumant trenques, capsigranys comuns i emmascarats, gaigs blaus, escorxadors, bosquetes pàl·ides orientals,…
Còlit de Xipre – Cyprus Wheatear (Oenanthe cypriaca). Imatge de Salvador ParreuTallarol esparverenc – Barred Warbler (Curruca nisoria). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
El fet d’arribar ben aviat ens permet gaudir de diferents estols de perdius de Chukar, alguns d’ells amb més de 20 individus.
Molt satisfets amb aquest inici de matí fem una estona a la zona del voltant de la tanca militar al Greek Cape sense massa noves espècies a afegir, i és que la calor ja apreta. Després del cafè frappe de rigor repetim visita a Oroklini Lake on ja no es veu el territ becadell però si 3 sisetes.
Fem una aturada curta a diverses zones humides al voltant de Larnaka, a on a més d’espècies més habituals, afegim curroc i gavina capblanca a la llista del viatge.
Decidim acabar la jornada fent aturada a les zones humides al sud de Nicosia, a on veiem diversos francolins, espècie aparentment complicada d’observar en aquestes dates però que en aquell espai sembla assolir densitats destacables. Des d’una petita torre d’observació podem veure a plaer un grapat de francolins, la majoria mascles quan, de sobte, apareix un alció d’Esmirna volant davant mateix de la torre d’observació. Mega raresa a l’illa que fa uns dies enrere s’havia observat per la zona però que no s’havia tornat relocalitzar. Gran final d’una inoblidable jornada!
Francolí negre – Black Francolin (Francolinus francolinus). Imatge de Ramon Grimalt.
Dia 5
Últim dia, sortim ben aviat cap al mític a Akrotiri Lake amb l’esperança de trobar alguna grua damisel·la. Però continuem sense sort i és que enguany les observacions es concentren al Nord de l’illa i són de grups en migració activa. Fins i tot amb grups grans però sense aquests quedin sedimentats per l’illa.
D’Akrotiri tornem a visitar el lloc l’alció d’Esmirna però a l’arribar, uns ornitòlegs locals ens comentem que s’ha observat un moment amagant-se dins d’una zona boscosa d’on no ha tornat a sortir. Tornem a gaudir dels francolins i apurem les darreres hores bans de marxar cap a l’aeroport visitant sectors arbustius propers a l’hotel, on a més de diversos còlits de Xipre per fi alguns del grup veiem un tallarol de Xipre amb el típic plomatge adult.
Capó reial – Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus). Imatge de Salvador Parreu.
Després d’una bona dutxa ens dirigim cap a l’aeroport a on un puntual vol ens torna cap a casa.
Molt contents per com ha anat el viatge, amb els tres principals endèmics: el tallarol de Xipre, el xot de Xiprei elcòlit de Xipre. Tots tres s’han observat bé, a més dels futurs possibles nous endèmics. Sumant a la llista d’espècies emblemàtiques com el francolí coll-negre, el corriol de leschenault, territ becadell, hortolà cendrós, tallarol esparverenc o la perdiu de chukar. Fins i tot sumant dues rareses locals com l’estornell rosat i l’alció d’Esmirna, en resum gran viatge a una meravellosa illa.
Llistat d’espècies vistes al llarg del tour (inclou noms vulgars en anglès i català a més del nom científic:
Overview: We are really happy to present you another successful 1st issue in another key birding destination. Our first tour in Poland produced excellent sights in a very good list of specialties living in the amazing forest of Bialowieza and nearby areas. Despite the rather high temperatures, all tour participants enjoyed great views on Pygmy Owl, Aquatic & River Warblers; Three-toed, White-backed & Black Woodpeckers; Collared & Red-breasted Flycatchers and many other key species.
Day 1. The whole group assembled at Warsaw International Airport after arriving from different flights coming from the UK. Once the vehicle was collected and the Warsaw traffic negotiated we had a first stop in a lovely swamp midway between the Polish capital city and our accommodation.
It was very sunny and warm but still plenty of activity. Even before parking we had a first good bird, since a splendid Black Stork was soaring low over the marshes. A short walk around produced several Sedge Warblers and Common Reed Buntings but also the best views on Common Rosefinch of the trip: a lovely male singing only a few metres away from our group. The Aspens around were having Penduline Tits, and we were soon enjoying views on the male as it was moving in the reedbeds. A minimum of 2 Thrush Nightingales were singing around, but we never saw them.
In a nearby forest we had at least 4 Icterine Warblers, even if not everybody in group had them this time. Lesser Whitethroat and Garden Warbler were also noted.
From here we had some drive to our accommodation, with a pair of Golden Orioles and Common Cuckoos flying by the minibus as we were crossing the lovely landscapes in Eastern Poland.
Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus) showing nicely in our first stop. Image by tour leader Carles Oliver.Penduline Tit (Remiz pendulinus) is a rather scarce nesting bird in the area. Image by Carles OliverIcterine Warblers (Hippolais icterine) proved as difficult to photograph as always! Image by Carles Oliver
Day 2. Short pre-breakfast walk to enjoy some birds in our hotel grounds. First views on Black Redstart of the trip along with common beauties including Golden Oriole and Lesser Whitethroat before covering the short distance to Bialowieza.
Our first walk in the impressive forests around Bialowieza could not be more productive. Despite the heat, a walk in the forestry was fast in producing the first Collared Flycatcher and Lesser Spotted Eagle of the trip. Hawfinches were all around calling and flying, but always difficult to catch. Both Marsh & Willow Tits were seen before we followed a Red-breasted Flycatcher that was singing inside the forest. We walked 200 metres away from the path, and soon we were surrounded by some impressive 300 years old trees. A Red-breasted Flycatcher was singing really close, and after some search we were all soon enjoying great views on this bird. But right before the Flycatcher showed out, a White-backed Woodpecker called once low around our group, and only a few minutes after the Flycatcher we had good views on two White-backed’s that were calling, drumming and feeding in the canopy around us!
Back to the minibus, we had our packed lunch while enjoying more views on a gorgeous male Collared Flycatcher before moving on to our next stop.
Lesser Spotted Eagle (Clanga pomarina) predating on a frog. Image by Carles Oliver.Our first Red-breasted Flycatcher (Ficedula parva) was this very handsome male. Image by Carles Oliver.White-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos) moving in a mature decideous forest. Image by Carles Oliver.Collared Flycatcher (Ficedula albicollis) flying out from its perch up in an oak. Image by Carles Oliver
Eurasian Pygmy Owls have become quite common around Bialowieza, but they keep being difficult to spot. This time we were lucky, and at the moment of arrival the female was out of the nest, calling. Its calls were being answered by the male nearby in the trees, and after some waiting we saw the female leaving the nest, and joining the male in branch. The male was waiting for her with some food, and he fed her before she went back to its nest. This feeding scene didn’t go unnoticed by the several tits and goldcrests around, and they all tried, unsuccessfully, to disturb the pair of tiny owls.
We could hardly believe our luck. To arrive at the nesting place just in time for one of this feeding ceremonies is quite difficult, but our luck was not over. After feeding, the female took her time in cleaning the nest hole, removing material from former preys out the whole to prevent infections. Time to time, male and female were still calling each other! After almost one hour of sighting we left the place, fully satisfied with the quality of the slight and the impressive details on the behaviour of this enigmatic species.
Some images of the pair of Eurasian Pygmy Owl. We spent almost one hour observing them. Images by Carles OliverThe female was leaving its hole a pair of times. One of them was fed by the male.Here the male with a recent prey.
After dinner, we drove until one of the leks of Great Snipes around Bialowieza. It was the evening, a wonderful time to enjoy the bojs. A gorgeous chorus of birds was waiting for us in the place. There were Common Reed Buntings and Segde Warblers but also River & Grasshopper Warblers as well as distant Thrush Nightingale plus Marsh & Icterine Warblers. The sunset was arriving, but before we still had time to see the only one Great Grey Shrike of the trip as well as passing Eurasian Woodcocks and a hunting Short-eared Owl. But the Great Snipes were not playing the game. We gave them a long time but only a male was singing time to time, and only offered a short flight that was only a few in the group could enjoy.
Day 3. Some in the group enjoyed a pre-breakfast walk around our accommodation, resulting in great looks into River Warbler and Thrush Nightingales. After breakfast, we kept our exploration of the forests. Our first stop produced lovely views on Wood Warblers (surprisingly nesting in spruce forests!), Crested Tits, flocks of Common Crossbills and a rather unexpected European Adder in the path.
The heat was already noticeable when we arrived to a small patch of spruce. There, a nest of Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker was waiting for us. Only a short wait was necessary before one of the adults came to the next, and during the next half and hour we all enjoyed again with the intimate views of the pair of this rather small woodpecker while coming to feed their young and marking the territory around the hole.
For over 45 minutes, we enjoyed amazing views on the pair of Three-toed’s while they were getting in and out the whole and interacting in the trees around. The forest around was full of birds, and here we got Tree Pipits, Willow Tits but also the only Eurasian Siskins of the trip. In the distance, a Black Woodpecker was calling over and over. It was definately time to move away. We took advantage of the calling Black Woodpecker and after a short scanning we had the bird moving in patch of Scotch Pines before we had a magnificent view of the bird flying across the road before stopping a few seconds in a tree nearby.
By midday we went to a lake nearby. Here we had the first views on a number of species including Marsh & Great Reed Warbler but also Black, Common and small numbers of White-winged Black Terns. Several Mute Swans were feeding, and a pair of Whooper Swan was also a nice adding to our list. White-tailed Eagles were flying around along with several White & Black Storks, Marsh Harriers, some distant Leasser Spotted Eagles and the only one Caspian Gull of the trip. Other interesting species here included European Stonechats and Red-backed Shrikes while Savi’s Warbler, Greater Bittern and Corncrake were all listened.
River Warbler (Locustella fluviatilis) showing nicely. Image by Derek Charlton. Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides trydactilus). Images by Carles OliverThree-toed Woodpecker flanks and underwing pattern Definately not something you can see every day. Image by Carles Oliver
The temperature was high and bird activity not massive, but there were some very promising clouds in the sky.. Our next stop was devoted to explore a small park around Bialowieza. Here we had some very elusive Icterine Warblers, Collared Flycatcher and at least 2 Middle Spotted Woodpeckers.
The marshes around were a paradise for warblers, and soon we had excellent views on a wonderful Barred Warbler moving in the small trees along the walk. Marsh, Reed & Grasshopper Warblers were also noted in the area.
Our last stop of the day was in a nother small corner of marsh. Here there was an impressive density of Sedge Warblers, but also good numbers of Marsh Warblers and we all could enjoy good but short views on River Warbler. Before going back to our accommodation, a European Green Woodpecker was noted nearby.
Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos medius). Image by Carles OliverBarred Warbler (Curruca nisoria) showed nicely for our group. Image by Carles OliverSavi’s Warbler (Locustella luscinoides) showing nicely during our afternoon walk. Image by Carles OliverWonderful habitat around Bialowieza. Image by Carles OliverSedge Warbler (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus). Image by Carles Oliver
Day 4. Very early start to explore the many meadows around Bialowieza. The main target before having breakfast was to find some of the 500 Eurasian Bisons living in these incredible forests, meaning the main population of this species worldwide.
This time we were very lucky, and soon after leaving the accommodation we were enjoying 3 majestic Bisons: two of them lying on the ground and the third standing up and feeding. To watch in the wild of the most endangered mammals in Europe is always a great experience! The Bisons spent most of the time eating but, as the morning, advanced, they lazily moved into the shade of some large trees, disappearing into the woods.
After breakfast, we went back to the forest, we started looking for some of the specialities that were not yet in our list. A Lesser Spotted Woodpecker flew over the group, partially offering good views to the group. We walked into long into the mature forests, with some stops here and there, until or goal was achieved. A Hazel Grouse came out from the forest, stopping a few metres away from us, up in a tree. Some members of the group had excellent views, but others simply could not locate the bird before it flew down and away from us! We still invested a long time looking & waiting for the bird the show better, but unfortunately this Grouse scaped us..
Eurasian Bisons (Bison bison) enjoying the fresh hours of the morning. Image by Carles Oliver
After this forest short walk we started the transfer to the Biebrza marshes. In our way, we had a mandatory stop to enjoy good views on Ortolan Buntings singing along with Yellowhammers. Around Bialystok we had a new stop, this time to check some fish ponds. Here there are some nesting pairs of Red-necked Grebes, and this time we counted up to 4 pairs of this superb grebes along with Penduline Tit, Great Reed Warbler, Marsh Harriers and a minimum of 2 Little Crakes that kept running and calling in the open reedbeds!
Again was very warm, so after a midday rest, we covered the short distance from our accommodation to the Biebrza marshes. An en route stop here produced more White-winged Black Terns and lovely scope views in the only one Moose of the trip, slowly walking in the marsh before disappearing inside a tall wall of reeds.
To end the day, we visited the famous woodwalk that gives access to some proper Aquatic Warbler habitat. Soon, we heard some of them calling and singing, and the cloudy afternoon provided us with the perfect setting for a good number of excellent views on these extremely scarce passerine, with only about 1000 pairs left in Europe!
We saw them singing but also feeding in the reeds covering the boj, displaying in flight and fighting each other with no mercy to defend their territories against any intruders. Here we also had 2 pairs of Montagu’s Harriers patrolling the open lands, and a good number of displaying Common Snipes, 1 Whinchat and some rather distant CommonRedshanks.
Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana). Image by Carles OliverRed-necked Grebe (Podiceps grisegena) in summer plomage. Image by Carles Oliver.Male Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus) passing by our group. Image by Carles OliverAquatic Warbler (Acrocephalus paludicola) singing at dusk. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 5. During the morning we explored a series of spots to enjoy birds of prey and warblers. Here we saw a minimum of 7 Lesser Spotted Eagles along with Black Storks and Honey Buzzards.
It was again a warm day, and the large fields were fulfilled with dizzing insects and large flocks of Starlings. Some pairs of Common Cranes and Grey Partridges were also seen. A pair of stops produced good views on Thrush Nightingale and some Warblers. Before lunch we tried hard to find Spotted Nutcracker but we didn’t find anything beyond Wood Warblers and Crossbills.
Male Common Crane (Grus grus) displaying. Image Carles OliverThrush Nightingale (Luscinia luscinia). Image by Carles OliverGrey Partridges are still common in most Eastern Poland. image by Carles Oliver
After lunch we scanned the wonderful habitat around Biebrza, where after some scanning we got good views on Citrine Wagtails but also Common Rosefinch, Marsh Harrier and a very elusive Bluethroat.
The last stop of the day was devoted to visit one of the few shallow marshes left in the area, and where a few White-winged Black Terns were feeding along with some Black Terns.
Citrine Wagtail (Motacilla citreola). Image by Carles OliverWhite-winged Black Tern (Chlidonias leucopterus)
Day 6. Only 90 minutes of birdwatching before transfering back to Warsaw for our flights back home. We did a short walk in a rather random spot around our accommodation combining some marsh and a isolated mature pinewood. Here, we had a Thrush Nightingale by the path but we were distracted by many noisy Thurshes and Jays. Derek had the idea to check in the case an Owl was around, and a few seconds later a Long-eared Owl flew above our heads stopping up in a pine! Very pleased and surprised by this unexpected beauty we checked the marsh with no relevant sights, but back to the woodland we had a Black Woodpecker moving in the trees, and after it flew off we were delighted to find a nest with 2 fledgings Black Woodpeckers sticking out of the nest. Barely 50 metres before, we had a Northern Goshawk flying out of its nest up the trees and this very short walk finished with a pair of Eurasian Hobbies flying low over the woodland. Maybe also nesting there?
Long-eared Owl (Asio otus) after being moved by Thrushes. Image by Carles OliverBlack Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) fledgings waiting for its parents to feed them. Image by Carles Oliver
From here we drove back to Warsaw to end a lovely first tour in Poland, and already thinking in coming back and enjoy the awesome birds and mammals living there!
Birds seen during the tour:
Grey Partridge (Perdix perdix)
Corncrake (Crex crex) – heard only
Hazel Grouse (Tetrastes bonasa)
Whooper Swan (Cygnus cygnus)
Mute Swan (Cygnus olor)
Greylag Goose (Anser anser)
Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
Common Swift (Apus apus)
Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)
Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
Stock Dove (Columba oenas)
Common Wood Pigeon (Columba palumbus)
Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)
Common Crane (Grus grus)
Water Rail (Rallus aquaticus) – heard only
Little Crake (Zapornia parva)
Eurasian Coot (Fulica atra)
Red-necked Grebe (Podiceps grisegena)
Northern Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus)
Eurasian Woodcock (Scolopax rusticola)
Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago)
Great Snipe (Gallinago media) – heard only
Common Redshank (Tringa totanus)
Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus)
Black-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
Caspian Gull (Larus cachinnans)
Common Tern (Sterna hirundo)
Black Tern (Clidonias niger)
White-winged Black Tern (Chlidonias leucopterus)
White Stork (Ciconia ciconia)
Black Stork (Ciconia nigra)
Greater Bittern (Botaurus stellaris) – heard only
Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea)
Great White Egret (Casmerodius albus)
Red Kite (Milvus milvus)
Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo)
European Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus)
Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus)
Western Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)
Lesser Spotted Eagle (Aquila pom
Northern Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis)
Eurasian Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus)
White-tailed Eagle (Haliaaetus albicilla)
Short-eared Owl (Asio flammeus)
Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium passerinum)
Long-eared Owl (Asio otus)
Eurasian Hoopoe (Upupa epops)
Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major)
White-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos)
Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos medius)
Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus)
Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dryobates minor)
Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius)
European Green Woodpecker (Picus viridis) – heard only
All images in this trip report taken by: Carmine Grasso, Mark Harper & Mark Newsome (tour participants), and Carles Oliver (tour leader). All rights reserved
Overview: Our 6th tour exploring Northern Finland and Norway (Finnmark) has been one of the best so far. We enjoyed mild weather all trip long, with a single day of rain. Again, we did very in Owls and Grouses, enjoying all 5 possible species of grouses with multiple views on all of them, and 5 species of Owls plus lovely views in rather scarce species including Gyrfalcon, White-billed Diver, Three-toed Woodpecker, Steller’s Eider and Rustic Bunting. Again, the number of Redpolls and Waxwings in the boreal forest was limited, but the numbers of waders and ducks was excellent all along the tour. Once again, it has a lovely experience in the untouched landscapes of the European North Pole. We are already looking for our 2024 issue, starting on May 31st!
Day 1. This day has been basically a travel day, with little birding. Still, some of the tour participants had the time to explore the marshes around our accommodation in Oulu and got very interesting sights including Little Tern, Temmincks Stints, the first Short-eared Owl of the trip and a flock of 10 Broad-billed Sandpipers among other goodies!
Day 2. First of a row of very early starts, this time devoted to explore a number of spots around Oulu. The morning was sunny and without any wind. Even before leaving the accommodation we had views on Common Rosefinch, Reed Bunting and Common Redstart. In our first stop we had a short walk in nice spruce forest. Bird activity was low but we still got the first Black Grouse of the trip that flew off from under our feet, good flocks of Common Crossbills and the only one European Crested Tit of the trip.
Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus) nearby our base in Oulu. Image by Mark Harper.Moose (Alces alces) around Oulu. Image by Carles OliverGrey-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus), a very unusual sight as far North as Oulu. Image by Carles Oliver
From here we got a widely known place for Terek’s Sandpiper, but we were not lucky about it and didn’t have anything beyond Common Rosefinch, Arctic Terns, Goldeneyes, a distant calling Little Ringed Plover and a running Stout.
After a coffee break we headed into a different spruce spot around Oulu. Here we were more lucky, and we had a Black Woodpecker flying in front the van just when arriving to the place. A Grey-headed Woodpecker was calling around and we took our chance to have nice views on a bird that was a bit beyond its normal nesting range. The Woodpecker was quietly sitting on the top of a dead tree allowing good and long views to everyone in the group. But after a pair of minutes latter a Hazel Grouse called from inside of one of the spruce pockets around us, so we fastly moved to the place to try to connect with it. It took us some time, as the bird kept moving up and down inside the forest, providing us with good flight views but never conceded a proper perched view.
Beyond this woodlands it is an extensive patch of farmland. Here we had the first Whinchats of the trip along with Skylarks, Eurasian Hobby, Ring-necked Pheasant, Marsh Harriers and a pair of Hen Harriers that were nicely soaring above the fields, searching for boles.
After midday break to recover a bit from the early morning, we did visit a small pond where a pair of Slavonian Grebes where nesting. Here we had intimate views on them before going for a short walk to one of bird towers around Limintahari. Unfortunately it was windy, but still we got a pretty list of birds that included 4+ White-tailed Eagles, several Mute & Whooper Swans, the firsts Little Gulls of the trip, 3 Baltic Gulls, 2 Caspian Terns, 1 Herring Gull and several flocks of ducks that include Garganeys, Teals, Eurasian Wigeon, Goldeneye, Tufted Ducks and Greylag Geese. Distant flocks of Common Cranes were moving up and down while some Sedge Warblers and Reed Buntings were seen singing despite the wind. In the parking place, a pair of Pied Flycatchers were nesting in a nest box. Wader activity was low due to wind, but still got distant views on lekking Ruffs, Common Greenshanks, some Dunlins and Common Snipes.
Stout (Mustela erminea) at the run. Image by Mark Newsome.Red-necked Grebe (Podiceps auritus) in full summer plomage. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 3. As usual in Finland, it was nice to see a fast change in the weather from the previous day. Our morning developed in a rainy ambient, with temperatures ranking between 8ºC and 12 ºC. During the morning, the main target was to contact with a number of owl species. Our first stop was devoted to check a nest box for Tengmalm’s Owl, and after a short wait we had the female coming out from the hole and showing for some minutes and it was checking that everything was okay around its nest place. From here we moved some miles away, as a next box for Ural Owl was occupied at the moment. Once arrived we were surprised by the first Spotted Flycatcher of the trip, as well as a Coal Tit that was calling around, even if never showed out. We were in a lovely clearing of the forest, and everybody enjoyed great scope views on the Ural Owl inside its nest.
The rain gave us a break, and we moved into a different location. A lovely mature spruce forest was hosting a pair of Eurasian Pygmy Owl. We already tried a place the previous day, with no luck. And this trial had a similar end. Yes, we had one of the birds shortly replaying from up in one of the spruces but, despite our efforts, we were uncapable to bring this bird into sight. It was time for a breakfast break. Around us, Northern Bullfinches were calling and feeding, and that morning we had several sights on them, as many Bullfinches were coming to the dart roads, presumably to swallow some dart. Also in teh dart roads, we had a good number of Eurasian Woodcocks flying off, with a pair of birds standing up for some seconds and allowing short but solid views. We did a short stop in a farming area, not far from the place where we were the day before, and we fastly connected with 3 Ortolan Buntings singing and calling around us. Whinchat, Eurasian Curlew and Yellowhammer were also noted around.
The weather was clearly improving as the day went on so we came back to the forests, leaving the open lands behind. The first Brambling of the trip was seen just by the van, and the only 3 Taiga Bean Geese of the trip flew above us at the moment to get inside a small patch of forest where a gorgeous female Great Grey Owl was sitting on its nest. The Great Grey Owl is not only an impressive beast, but also the largest owl in this part of the world! After several minutes enjoying the bird, we decided to take a look. The male could not be far away, guarding from any potential risk the nest and his partner. And we were sucessful in finding the male, that was about 50 metres away from the nest, up in a dense pine. Again, the group enjoyed amazing scope views and, despite the rather windy weather, the camera men in the group had a wonderful quest to capture the spirit of such an impressive beast. Here we also had Eurasian Treecreeper and the very common Willow Warblers and Goldcrests.
Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa) on its massive nest. Image by Carles OliverThe always very impressive Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa). Image by Carles OliverOrtolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana). Image by Carles OliverBoreal Owl (Aegolius funereus) on its nest box. Image by Mark Newsome.Eurasian Treecreeper (Certhia familiaris). Image by Mark Newsome.Detail of the boreal forest. Image by Carles Oliver
After a pair of minor stops we went for a lunch stop, we hit the road in the direction of Kuusamo. A pair of stops in the way were mandatory as small flocks of Little Gulls were seen quite close, moving along with the nesting Black-headed Gulls. At mid afternoon we were already there, and we have time to explore a spot not far away from the town. Here the Mountain Hares were everywhere, but the area, an open land with small pockets of young willows, was only having Reed Buntings. When we were ready to leave, suddenly a tiny call came from the low branches of a willow, and a male Little Bunting showed up, singing a number of times from different branches. It followed a tiny peak of activity with a minimum of two males singing around and a putative female moving really low in the vegetation. We had to move a pair of times up and down in the track but at the end all the tour participants had excellent views on this little, wonderful patterned, birds.
From here we drove to the accommodation to have some rest and a bit of birding before dinner time, resulting in some Wood Sandpipers in the lake right beside our rooms, Common Cuckoo in the parking place, and Willow Warbler, Common Redstarts and the firsts House Martins of the trip as the most remarkable sights.
Little Bunting (Emberiza pusilla) feeding. Image by Mark Newsome.Little Bunting (Emberiza pusilla). Image by Carles OliverCommon Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus) in the hotel grounds in Kuusamo. Image by Carles OliverLandscape around Kuusamo by Carles Oliver
Day 4. A full day to enjoy the wonderful birding around the Kuusamo. Early am the weather was stable, but the wind started to blow after 9:00am, making birding a bit more difficult. Leaving our accommodatioin, we had the first Black Grouses of the day, as some females were seen feeding beside some minor tracks. From here we covered the short distance to a nice spot for Willow Grouse, and even before arriving we had to make a small detour as a male was seen in the top of a small rock inside a private garden. It was still a bit dark, but we didn’t miss the chance of some good shots in this wonderful and really tame male. During the next hour we had a minimum of 10 Black Grouses, all of them females, and a second Willow Grouse really close to the van. We crossed by some lakes, and some stops were mandatory to enjoy close views not only on Little Gulls and a drake Smew, but also on 5 Red-necked Grebes, Garganey and a wonderful Black-throated Diver at close range! The variety of ducks was remarkable, including Eurasian Teal, Pintail, Mallard, Tufted Duck, Common Goldeneye, Red-breasted Mergarser and Goosander.
In a different spot of the forest we had one of the typical stops, as a male Western Capercaillie was displaying in the track! Unfortunately, this time didn’t allow time for everybody to get out of the vehicle and take some shots, as the bird flew off inside the forest, followed by a female that was at the edge of the forest. We walked down the track slowly and we could hear the distant song of the Capercaillies, that unfortunately didn’t show again. Standing in this place, Mark had a song in the distance; a Rustic Bunting was singing in a small boj in the forest. We walked all the way down to the boj and carefully scanning around, but could not find any sign of the buntings. Back to the track, we suddenly had a bird calling around, and some seconds after this we had a wonderful male singing around us! The bird was really mobile but we enjoyed great views in this little cracker! Just when coming back to the minibus, 2 Parrot Crossbills flew over us at close range, offering half a second of good views on their large head and very powerful bills! Unfortunately they never stop, and kept their way above the canopy.
Female Black Grouse (Lyrurus tetrix). One of 20+ seen during the trip. Image by Mark NewsomeLittle Gull (Hydrocoloeus minutus) in flight. Great shot by Mark NewsomeSmew (Mergellus albellus), a scarce nesting duck in Lapland. Image by Mark Harper.Whooper Swans (Cygnus cygnus) feeding in farmland. Image by Carles OliverWillow Grouse (Lagopus lagopus) showing nicely in our very first “grouse drive”. Image by Carles OliverWestern Capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus) displaying. Image by Carles OliverLovely Rustic Bunting (Emberiza rustica). A single stop in Kuusamo produced Capercaillie, Rustic Bunting and Parrot Crossbill! Image by Carles Oliver
Back to the minibus we still had more Black Grouses and a pair of female Capercaillies in the road, offering of all them really good views. It was still early morning but we wanted to check a small spot only 10 miles away from the Russian border. There, large areas of dead, broken pines and willows offered an excellent habitat for another of the owls living in the region. We spent over half an hour in the place, but we didn’t get anything beyond Redwings, Tree Pipits, Mealy Redpolls and Whinchats. Finally we decided to move on, and when we were leaving our efforts were greatly granted: a wonderful Northern Hawk Owl was sitting next to the road, in the highest part of a tall willow! We took our chance, park besides and we all enjoyed long views on this wonderful bird while was overwatching its hunting area. A Fieldfare was trying to moob the owl, but the only that got was the owl to open its wings a pair of times, allowing us to see a good detail on the wing design. After nearly 15 minutes enjoying the bird from the road, the Hawk Owl decided to leave the place, flying away and crossing the open land nearby.
Extremelly happy after this extemelly nice sight, we move to Livaara, a wonderful hill that oversees the extensive forests around Kuusamo. But we still had to do another stop in way, since Mark (yes, it was more than one Mark in the tour) found a Hazel Grouse nicely posing beside the road!! From inside the van, we all had incredible views, with the lovely morning sun illuminating the game bird. As it moved, a female appeared beside the male, and both male and female moved for a pair of minutes before getting away, back inside the boreal forest. Very happy after this, we covered the short distance to Livaara. Once arrived, we were surprised by a very intense Woodpecker activity. Firstly, a Great Spotted Woodpecker that was feeding immediatly around the parking place, and secondly a wonderful Black Woodpecker that appeared from the forest, displaying and calling. It was already cloudy and a bit windy so to see these Woodpeckers behaving like this was quite a surprise, especially when the Black Woodpecker decided to gly our way, stopping only 50 metres away from our group, offering another unforgettable sight!
The wind was getting serious, especially in the highest part of the hill. Still, we decided to walk a bit. We never reached the top of the hill (a famous place for Red-flanked Bluetail) as the bird activity was clearly very low. Still, in our short-walk around the parking place we got nice views on a passing by White-tailed Eagle and a second pair of Rustic Buntings as a nice end of a magic morning!
Back to the accommodation, we still had some time for rest before having lunch.
During the afternoon the weather deteriorated fast, with strong winds affecting especially the higher parts of Kuusamo. We invested a pair of hours exploring a pair of spots, but we got nothing of interest beyond the common species living in this part of the world so decided to have an early dinner.
Northern Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula). Image by Carles OliverA couple of Hazel Grouses (Tetrastes bonasia) by the minivan was one of the highlights of the day. Image by Carles OliverThis Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) offered us amazing and really unexpected views when around Limahara. Another great shot by Mark Newsome.Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius). Image by Carles OliverBlack-throated Diver (Gavia arctica) around Kuusamo. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 5. Another early start to explore some of the hills around Kuusamo. Our first stop was devoted to explore Valatavaara, where it was going on a mountain race. Bird activity was quite low, but when arrived to the summit we had good views on a singing Common Cuckoo + Common Redstart and Dunnock. It didn’t take long before we contacted with the our first Three-toed Woodpecker that gave us excellent views while calling and moving up in a dead tree. Besides, a Great Spotted Woodpecker was also calling, and it was interesting to compare the calls of both species. Our walk kept going, adding lovely views on Tree Pipits and Spotted Flycatchers. A bit more of time was required to find a pair of Siberian Jays that, after moving quite high in the trees for a while, finally decided to come down. At some point, we had only a few meters away! Moving around the area we had a second Three-toed Woodpecker working the wood, but went away quite fast and not everybody in the group saw it. We still listened them drumming and calling several times! After a good pair of hours, it was quite clear that we were not going to have any Bluetail at Valtavaara so we decided to move away from here to try a second spot. After some breakfast, we drove the short distance and went to explore another section of boreal forest. We again enjoyed of the views above the endless forest that covers this region of Finland. And here we had more luck, and we listened a male Red-flanked Bluetail singing from the top of a distant spruce. The effort was worth it, especially when the bird moved into a different spruce where it caught the wonderful morning light! There we had 20 minutes to enjoy the bird, while a second Bluetail was singing around us.
Once everyone was satisfied with the views on these wonderful Bluetails, we came down the hill. Including a pair of stops for lunch and coffee, we had some solid drive North to the area around Ivalo.
Capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus) female showing its wonderful camouflage. Image by Mark NewsomeThree-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus) posing nicely for our group. Image by Carles OliverSiberian Jays (Perisoreus infaustus) were as approachable as always. Image by Mark NewsomeRed-flanked Bluetail (Tarsiger cyanurus). Image by Carles OliverThe amazing landscape of the boreal forest around Kuusamo. Image by Carles Oliver
We were already inside Lapland and the North Polar Circle. Here, extensive boreal forests can be found all around. Before covering the short distance to our accommodation in the area we spent an hour and so in a lovely corner. In teh way, more Willow Grouses were visible along with Black Grouses. A pair of stops in selected places produced lovely views on obliging Siberian Tit, a highly appreciated speciality in this trip. Along with it we scanned the several Common Crossbill around in search for something different. Three-toed Woodpeckers were also active, and we could listen them drumming and had a glimpse in one of them while moving in the forest.
After this we just drove to our accommodation for some rest and a good evening meal!
Siberian Tit (Poecile cinctus) possed nicely for the group. Image by Mark HarperWood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola) in its nesting grounds. Image by Carles OliverPine Grosbeak (Pinicola enucleator) despite the rain. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 6. A rainy day this morning, so an excellent chance to enjoy our the amazing buffet breakfast in our hotel at Ivalo. After breakfast we transfer North, with a mandatory stop in a popular coffee stop to enjoy the amazing Pine Grosbeak that attend the feeding station nearby. Here we also had good views on drake Bramblings but also Common Redpolls, Greenfinches, several Red Squirrels and a Waxwing that showed up just when we were leaving the coffee shop.
The day was wet and cold, but a pair of stops still produced the first Bluethroat of the trip along with Siberian Jay crossing the road. Here is where, stopping by the road, we had one of the best moments of trip. A walk inside a woodland of low willows allowed good views on Arctic Redpolls. It was dropping and the display of two displaying Common Snipes arrived to us from the nearby boj when a call came from inside the forest. A fast scanning in the area revealed not less than a Northern Hawk Owl that was hatching in a nest box, only a few meters away from the path! After some minutes of excitement the call came again from inside the forest, and it was not coming from the nest box. It was obvious that the male was around. A bit of scanning and exploring the forest was necessary before we found the male perched up in a tree. It was extremely quiet, only 15 metres away from us. Actually, it was so chill out that, at some point, it decided to fly down from the tree to stop only 10 metres away from us, in the top of a dead and broken willow. There, under the light rain, we got one of the most amazing sights of all the tours that we have had in Finland! Some were taking photos, while some participants just decided to sit down and enjoy the moment.. After 20 unforgettable minutes we decided to move away, back to minibus. The male still on its trunk, the female hatching. Without doubt one of my best experiences in the taiga, so far!
Northern Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula). Images by Carles OliverA pair of Bohemian Waxwing (Bombycilla garrulus) was nesting around our accommodation. Image by Carles Oliver
Back to the van, we all honestly needed some time to recover from this amazing experience, and later on we kept moving North, still with the ecos of the very low calls of the male in our heads. After a lunch stop, we arrived in Varanger by early afternoon. In our way we had several White-tailed Eagles moving along the coast line, and a good number of Rough-legged Buzzards looking for boles all along the road.
The coast along Varanger is a truly paradise for wildlife, and this unspoiled landscape is till preserving good densities of a long list of birds nesting all along its tundra and boj. A fast stop road allowed us to enjoy the first Kittiwakes of the trip, but also Dunlin, Temminck’s Stints, Redshanks, Bar-tailed Godwit and Ruddy Turstone.
The first proper stop in the fjord could no be better. As always there were several Goosanders, Red-breasted Mergansers and tens of Common Eiders along with many waders. We knew that some Steller’s Eiders were around, and Mark found them after a proper scan of the shore! There were two 2nd year males and one female. No bright colours then for the group (not yet) but still Steller’s Eiders!
Walking the short distance until an advantaged point, we enjoyed very long views on the birds as they moved a bit in the shore, being moved sometimes by the much larger Common Eiders. Here we also had the first Purple Sandpiper of the trip and Eurasian Whimbrel.
After we found the most important items of the afternoon, we went to enjoy of the many Phalarope ponds that are in this area to end our day with the amazing experience of 20 of this Nordic gems feeding only a few meters away from us. They arrived to their nesting grounds only a few days before, and they were extremely busy feeding on insects to recover from the long journey. They were all very excited, and we saw at least three different mating during the hour and so that we were there.
Arctic Terns (Sterna paradisaea). Image by Mark Newsome.Some urban Mountain Hares (Leppus timidus). Image by Mark NewsomeTundra Bean Geese (Anser serrirostris) by Carles OliverRed-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus) female (up) & male (below) by Carles Oliver
Day 7. A cloudy and fresh day, a nice weather to explore the Arctic landscapes with small windows of sun and with only a few drops of rain during the day. After breakfast we drove North to check one of the many bays along the coast in Varanger. But before we had a stop when crossing Vadso, since 3 Steller’s Eiders (the same three birds of the previous afternoon?) were feeding close to the shore along with Common Eiders. Here really improve the views on them as well as enjoying 30 Purple Sandpipers in the rocks.
Our first proper stop didn’t produce so much. Here there were recent reports of close views on a White-billed Diver, but we couldn’t find it. Still, the spot allowed us to connect with the firsts Long-tailed Ducks, Guillemots, Black Guillemots and Red-throated Divers of the trip, all of them common birds along this coast.
From here we drove to Vardo and wait for the boat connecting with Hornoya. After some waiting, we finally got the boat and cover the short distance out the bay of Vardo before arriving by the massive cliffs of the island.
Hornoya is the Easternmost point in Norway and hosts one of the most amazing seabird colony in Europe. Between March and July, the island concentrates between 150,000 and 180,000 sea birds, depending on the year. About 75,000 pairs of birds nest here including 40,000 pairs of Common Guillemots, 8,000 of Atlantic Puffin and about 5,000 of Brünnich’s Guillemot! Both the ambient of the colony, the extremely loud noise plus the incredible density of birds on its cliffs are not easy to forget for any visitor!
We landed in the island, and it was not long before we had the firsts Brünnich’s nesting up the in cliff. Small pockets of them can be found, always surrounded and outnumbered by Common Guillemots (including several from the smart Bridled form) and Razorbills.
Atlantic Puffins were everywhere in the lowest areas, and Shags and Kittiwakes were taking advantage of every single cavity, terrace or even bank, to nest on. The walk around the island also produced both Meadow & Red-throated Pipit, Bluethroat, Twite Arctic Skua, Barnacle & Greylag Geese, Rock Pipits, Goosanders and, of course, Redwings.
A bit of seawatching produced a few Atlantic Gannets going North and the first of a bunch of whales; a Minke Whale.
White-tailed Eagle (Haliaaetus albicilla). image by Carles OliverCommon Guillemots (Uria aalge) in Hornoya. Images by Carles OliverBrünnich’s Guillemots (Uria lomvia) by Carles OliverAtlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica) by Carles Oliver
From Hornoya we kept moving North, stopping in the tundra to search for some species we fastly connect with some wonderful Lapland Buntings in full summer plomage and the very firsts Ruff lekking in short grass while both European Golden Plovers and Arctic Skuas were also ready to nest around.
Soon, the lane stick to the shore and several flocks of Goosanders start to appear. Here, Mark sharply spotted a number of whales. Most of them turned out to be Fin Whales, but a at least two of them were Humpback Whales! After some good views on them we kept driving North, but soon we had to stop again: a drake White-billed Diver was really close to the coast, offering great looks to all the tour participants. This is a good time of year to try to see them, as they are migrating North (!) to arrive to their nesting sites. Depending on the year, one or two non-breeding birds may stay in the area!
While scanning the harbour, another 2 White-billed Divers (one of them a 2nd year bird) were found, as well as a 6 Red-throated Divers, several flocks of Long-tailed Ducks and 2 Grey Seals. From here, we started a slow way back enjoying some views on Willow Grouse, Twite and more whales!
Back around Vardo, we still had two more stops in the way back to the accommodation. The first as 4 Pink-footed Geese were feeding nearby the road, and the second stop because of 2 wonderful Short-eared Owls that were chasing each other over the farmland next to the road. Here we were specially lucky as one of them just decided to stop next to our minibus, allowing us to capture some incredible image. Definately not a bad way to end our day!
Lapland Bunting (Calcarius lapponicus). Image by Carles OliverRuff (Calidris pugax) ready to lek in the tundra. Image by Carles OliverWhite-billed Diver (Gavia adamsi) in full summer plomage. Image by Mark Newsome.White-tailed Eagle being moved by a apir of Arctic Skuas. Image by Mark Newsome.Fin Whale (Balaenoptera physalus). Image by Mark Newsome.Humpback Whale (Megaptera novaeangliae). Image by Mark NewsomeShort-eared Owl (Asio flammeus). Image by Carles Oliver
Day 8. A pre-dawn walk produced nice views on the typical coastal birds around our accommodation, and Mark Newsome had a full adult Heuglin’s Gull (currently considered as a race of Lesser black-backed Gull), a quite unexpected species in this area!
This day we transfered to the inner Varanger, where the tundra becomes a wonderful carpet that covers the whole plateau, with plenty of rocky outcrops, lakes and deep valleys that mark the distribution of the many goodies nesting here.
But before we had a small stop South of Ekrenoy, where a French gentleman had a drake Steller’s Eider the day before. At the first attemp Carmine had a small flock of 4 Steller’s Eider appearing from behind some rock, and there was our wonderful drake male offering some wonderful views while feeding along with 3 females! The birds kept coming closer and closer, and the rather intimates views paid off the time that we spent waiting for them in the rather cold ambient.
From here we drove all the way to the central plateau in Varanger, where a first stop produced the first views on lovely Long-tailed Skuas, several Arctic Redpolls and good views on the very splendid Bluethroats nesting in the area. From here we went to check a number of spots where the very sought after GyrFalcon is likely to appear. In our second stop, we found a pair of these massive falcons in a small cliff showing clear nesting signs.
We had scope views on both the male and the female while resting in the cliffs. At some point, the male flew off, circling in the sky to powerfully fly into the cliffs, probably in the chase of any potential prey.
Heuglin’s Gull (Larus fuscus heuglini) by Mark NewsomeAwesome views on Steller’s Eiders (Pollysticta stelleri)Long-tailed Skua (Stercorarius longicaudus) by Mark Newsome.Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica) singing its heart out. Image by Carles OliverArctic Redpoll (Acanthis hornemanni) by Mark NewsomeGyrfalcon (Falco rusticolus). Images by Carles Oliver
After this incredible sight we kept exploring the tundra, adding close views on Black-throated & Red-throated Diver to our list. Red-throated Pipits were singing around and a pair of Shore Larks was found feeding along one of the lanes. In the roocky outcrops, we enjoyed up to 4 Rock Ptarmigans showing out its white plomage. We even had some display flights, and their rocky calls contrasted with the happy display songs of both European Golden Plovers and Dunlins that full filled the ambient. Some Snow Buntings were also noted, but only a female provided the group with more or less close views. Just the opposite from Lapland Buntings, that looked like being as common as ever, with some males walking really close to the prominent Long-tailed Skua nests.
At the end of the afternoon, we got a pair of Rough-legged Buzzards hunting by one of the lanes, providing great views and the day ended with some scanning of large gulls in the search of any scarcity, and with some Willow Grouse by the lane before arriving to our accommodation.
Rock Ptarmigan (Lagopus mutus). Image by Carmine GrassoThis afternoon we had splendid views on Rough-legged Buzzards (Buteo lagopus). Image by Mark NewsomeThe impressive landscape in the highest area of Varanger. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 9. During the morning we explored a bit further the tundra, adding better views on Snow Finch, Long-tailed Skuas, Red-throated Pipits, as well as enjoying with the display and close views on Red-throated Divers, Ruff and Scaups. We spent some time in a small stream where in previous years we had Dipper, but we failed to find any of the. For instance, the only one Peregrine Falcon of the tour appeared in the gorge. Back to the tundra, we had 2 Bar-tailed Godwits flying low over the area, an interesting sight since they are not supposed to nest here. At midday we started the transfer back South, and we spent the rainy afternoon in our accommodation.
Red-throated Pipit (Anthus cervinus) in flight display. Image by Mark Harper.Obliging Ruff (Calidris pugnax) by Mark Newsome.Long-tailed Skua portrait (Stercorarius longicaudatus). Image by Carmine Grasso. European Golden Plover (Pluvialis apricaria) in nesting grounds. Image by Carmine Grasso.
Day 10. This day we took advantage of our midday flight to have a last am in proper boreal forest. Unfortunately we had a cold morning with a heavy snow fall. It was actually the first snow fall ever in this trip. Still, we had a good pair of hours, and a nice short walk in the forest produced several Common Crossbills, a feeding pair of Bohemian Waxwings and a nice male Parrot Crossbill that showed quite properly in the top of a spruce along with several Bramblings, Mealy Redpolls and Eurasian Siskins.
The drive around this spot South of Ivalo produced also a minimum of 7 Black Grouses, including 6 males moving together and a female Western Caspercaillie nicely flying beside the minibus and showing the lovely peachy patch on its breast.
After a pair of hours of birding we went to enjoy a coffee and some food before heading to airport while the landscape was being covered by a massive snow fall! Without doubt, a great way to end our 2023 trip in Finland!
Black Grouse (Lyrurus tetrix). Several males were active in the boreal forest during our last morning. Image by Mark Newsome.Parrot Crossbill (Loxia pytyopsittacus). Image by Mark Newsome.
List of birds seen during the trip:
Red-throated Diver (Gavia stellata)
Black-throated Diver (Gavia arctica)
Yellow-billed Diver (Gavia adamsii)
Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus)
Red-necked Grebe (Podiceps grisegena)
Slavonian Grebe (Podiceps auritus)
Atlantic Gannet (Morus bassanus)
Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)
Atlantic Shag (Phalacrocorax aristotelis)
Great White Egret (Casmerodius albus)
Whooper Swan (Cygnus cygnus)
Mute Swan (Cygnus olor)
Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna)
Greylag Goose (Anser anser)
Tundra Bean Goose (Anser serrirostris)
Taiga Bean Goose (Anser fabalis)
Pink-footed Goose (Anser brachyrhynchus)
Barnacle Goose (Branta leucopsis)
Eurasian Wigeon (Mareca penelope)
Gadwall (Mareca strepera)
Eurasian Teal (Anas crecca)
Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)
Pintail (Anas acuta)
Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)
Garganey (Spatula querquedula)
Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula)
Greater Scaup (Aythya marila)
Common Eider (Somateria mollissima)
Steller’s Eider (Polysticta stelleri)
Long-tailed Duck (Clangula hyemalis)
Common Scoter (Melanitta nigra)
Goldeneye (Bucephala clangula)
Smew (Merguellus albellus)
Goosander (Mergus merganser)
Red-breasted Merganser (Mergus serrator)
Black Kite (Milvus migrans)
Hen Harrier (Circus cyaneus)
Western Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)
Eurasian Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus)
Northern Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis) — heard only
Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo)
Rough-legged Buzzard (Buteo lagopus)
Osprey (Pandion haliaetos)
White-tailed Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla)
Eurasian Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)
Eurasian Hobby (Falco subbuteo)
Merlin (Falco columbarius)
Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus)
Gyrfalcon (Falco rusticolus)
Hazel Grouse (Tetrastes bonasa)
Willow Grouse (Lagopus lagopus)
Rock Ptarmigan (Lagopus mutus)
Black Grouse (Lyrurus tetrix)
Western Capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus)
Common Crane (Grus grus)
Eurasian Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus)
Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula)
Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius) — heard only
Eurasian Golden Plover (Charadrius apricaria)
Northern Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus)
Temminck’s Stint (Calidris temminckii)
Little Stint (Calidris minuta)
Red Knot (Calidris canutus)
Purple Sandpiper (Calidris maritima)
Ruff (Calidris pugnax)
Broad-billed Sandpiper (Limicola falcinellus)
Eurasian Woodcock (Scolopax rusticola)
Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago)
Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica)
Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa)
Eurasian Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
Eurasian Curlew (Numenius arquata)
Common Redshank (Tringa totanus)
Greenshank (Tringa nebularia)
Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola)
Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus)
Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos)
Ruddy Turstone (Arenaria interpres)
Red-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus)
Arctic Skua (Stercorarius parasiticus)
Long-tailed Skua (Stercorarius longicaudus)
Little Gull (Hydrocoloeus minutus)
Black-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
Common Gull (Larus canus)
Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus)
Herring Gull (Larus argentatus)
Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus)
Kittiwake (Rissa tridactyla)
Common Tern (Sterna hirundo)
Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea)
Little Tern (Sternula albifrons)
Caspian Tern (Hydroprogne caspia)
Guillemot (Uria aalge)
Brünnich’s Guillemot (Uria lomvia)
Razorbill (Alca torda)
Black Guillemot (Cepphus grylle)
Atlantic Puffin (Fratercula arctica)
Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)
Stock Dove (Columba oenas)
Common Wood Pigeon (Columba palumbus)
Common Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus)
Short-eared Owl (Asio flammeus)
Tengmalm’s Owl (Aegolius funereus)
Great Grey Owl (Strix nebulosa)
Ural Owl (Strix uralensis)
Northern Hawk Owl (Surnia ulula)
Common Swift (Apus apus)
Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major)
Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus)
Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius)
Grey-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus)
Skylark (Alauda arvensis)
Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris)
Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica)
Western House Martin (Delichon urbicum)
Tree Pipit (Anthus trivialis)
Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis)
Red-throated Pipit (Anthus cervinus)
Rock Pipit (Anthus petrosus)
White Wagtail (Motacilla alba)
Western Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla flava)
Bohemian Waxwing (Bombycilla garrulus)
Dunnock (Prunella modularis)
Eurasian Robin (Erithacus rubecula)
Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica)
Red-flanked Bluetail (Tarsiger cyanurus)
Common Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
Whinchat (Saxicola rubetra)
Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata)
European Pied Flycatcher (Ficedula hypoleuca)
Northern Wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe)
Fieldfare (Turdus pilaris)
Song Thrush (Turdus philomelos)
Eurasian Redwing (Turdus iliacus)
Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus)
Eurasian Blackbird (Turdus merula)
Sedge Warbler (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus)
Eurasian Blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla) — heard only
Número de participants: 11 + 2 tour líders (Carles Oliver & Sergi Sales)
Número d’espècies observades: 88
Prefaci: Els OrnitoReptes són les sortides de descoberta ornitològica que organitzem conjuntament Barcelona Birding Point, Birding Catalunya i la Fundació Plegadis. A continuació us presentem la crònica del nostre OrnitoRepte més agosarat, que va estar força marcat per la meteorologia. El vendaval del dissabte va fer molt difícil i poc comfortable l’observació d’aus, amb unes condicions en les que amb prou feines es podia sortir dels vehicles ni obrir les finestres. Parar un trípode o fer un passeig eren missions pràcticament suïcides! Però, malgrat tot, vam aconseguir trobar i gaudir de les espècies més essencials dels hàbitats que vam explorar. El diumenge, com a compensació, vam gaudir d’unes condicions gairebé ideals a l’estepa i vam poder observar molt bé les diferents espècies que allà hi viuen. Ja de tornada, un seguit de parades ens van proporcionar bones observacions d’un seguit d’espècies que a alguns dels participants se’ls hi havien resistit al llarg de força temps com el colltort o la tallareta cuallarga!
Dia 1. Un cop el grup es va trobar als afores de Barcelona ens vam dirigir cap a Fraga, a on teníem estrablert un segon punt de trobada per a aquells clients que així ho volguessin. Ja que el segon punt de trobada era un restaurant vam aprofitar per esmorzar una mica, només faltaria! A fora, el vent ja bufava de valent, fent preveure una jornada d’allò més complexa.
D’aquí ens vam dirigir a explorar les extenses zones de conreu de secà amb racons d’estepa natural que s’estenen entre Fraga, Candasnos i Alcolea de Cinca. Només arribar a la primera zona a explorar ja vam poder veure algunes terreroles comunes i calàndries. Al llarg del cap de setmana les observacions van anar millorant fins que tothom les va poder veure força bé. Vam provar de fer una parada i explorar la zona a peu, però el fort vent no ho feia gens agradable era poc productiu, així que vam tornar als vehicles amb només un grapat de caderneres i alguna calàndria passa volant.
Terrerola comuna (Calandrela brachydactyla). Imatge de Gerard Sauret.
Tot continuant l’exploració amb els vehicles no vam trigar gaire a observar el primer estol de xurres en vol. Hi volaven 4. Semblaven haver sortit d’un rostoll a prop de nosaltres i tot repassant el camp amb els binocles vam poder trobar una parella alimentat-se al terra que malauradament va sortir volant abans que tothom les pogués gaudir. Com que totes semblaven dirigir-se cap al mateix sector ens vam apropar, amatents de qualsevol moviment.
Un cop a la zona a on semblava que les xurres s’havien aturat, no vam trobar a relocalitzar-les, però novament van tornar a sortir volant, aquest cop oferint bones observacions a tots els membres del grup!
El vent continuava bufant de debó, però com a mínim ja teníem les xurres al sarró. Vam continuar explorant la zona, gaudint de cogullades fosques, milans negres i de la primera d’un bon grapat d’esmerles al llarg dels dos dies del viatge. Una mica més enllà el Robert va trobar el primer tallarol trencamates de la sortida, i tothom al primer vehicle va poder gaudir de molt bones observacions malgrat el vent. Mestrestant, al segon vehicle es conformaven amb un trobat que es deixà fer molt.
Malgrat el vent, el dia semblava bo per a rapinyaires i no vam trigar a tenir-ne la prova quan una àguila daurada va aparèixer sobre un petit turó i va anant perdent alçada fins aturar-se a sotavent d’un petit arbust en un observació força maca en la vam poder gaudir de la bona maniobrabilitat d’aquests ocells en situacions de vent fort com la que estàvem experimentant.
Una mica més enllà ens vam aturar per explorar uns tallats i no vam trigar gaire a gaudir de molt bones observacions d’aufrany però també de ballesters passa volants i cotxa fumada. La sort va fer que un aufrany decidís aturar-se ben a prop nostre, oferint bones oportunitats fotogràfiques.
Xurres (Pterocles orientalis) en vol sobre un guaret. Imatge de Gerard Sauret. Aufrany (Neophron percnopterus) a punt d’aterrar. Imatge de Joan Oliver Manen.Aufrany des del quer. Imatge de Joan Oliver Manen
Tot amb tot ja havia passat bona part del matí així que vam decidir de tornar al punt a on havíem aparcat quasi tots els vehicles i vam marxar cap a l’Oest. De camí, nombrosos milans negres i aligot comuns ens observàvem. Vam arribar a la zona de Bujaraloz cap a l’hora de dinar i un cop amb l’estómac ple vam començar a explorar les immenses planes que rodegen aquest peculiar poble.
Només sortir del restaurant es va fer palés que el vent no només no afluixava, sinó que anava a més. A la sortida de Bujaraloz vam poder veure un parell de estols de xoriguers petits alimentant-se als camps del voltant a més de terreroles comunes i rogenques. Vam començar a cercar la petita població de piocs de la zona, amb molta atenció als diferents llocs típics per a l’espècie en aquesta època de l’any. Aquí i allà vam trobar còlits grisos i diferents estols de gralles i gralles de bec vermell que, preferiblement, s’alimentaven als guarets de la zona. Poc després vam localitzar un grup de xurres que s’alimentaven a prou distància per poder observar-les al terra sense molestar-les i tot el grup va poder gaudir de bones observacions, tot i que mantenir el telescopi dret era quasi una proesa i alguns van preferir continuar gaudint de l’escalfor de la furgo.
Però anava passant la tarda i els piocs no apareixien. I quan tot just pensàvem ja en canviar de zona per provar alguna altra cosa vam trobar un pioc alimentant-se en un guaret força alt a quasi un quilòmetre de distància de nosaltres. Després de fer una primera observació des d’aquesta distància ens vam apropar una mica amb els vehicles, fins a tenir una molt bona observació dels dos individus però sempre amb molt de compte de no destorbar-los. Un dels exemplars es va estirar a terra, relaxat, i el seu cap amb prou feines sí es veia per sobre el tall de gramínies. A la seva esquerra, l’altre exemplar continuava picotejant el terra, ja fora del guaret, permetent-nos gaudir d’una fantàstica observació de l’au sencera amb una bonica llum de tarda. Llàstima del vent!
Després d’una bona estona amb els piocs, vam decidir de fer via cap a l’allotjament. I quan sortíem de la zona vam tenir la sort de trobar-nos amb uns altres dos exemplars de pioc quasi a peu de pista! Tant a prop que de fer no vam poder evitar espantar-los… Tots dos van aixecar el vol i es van dirigir pista amunt, cap a la zona a on havíem esta gaudint dels altres dos mascles.
Pioc salvatge (Otis tarda) a les planes. Imatges de Joan Oliver Manen.
De camí a l’allotjament encara vam fer una última parada en un racó arrecerat del vent. Aquí el paisatge ja era totalment diferent. Havíem deixat enrere les eternes planes cobertes de cereal per a endinsar-nos en un paisatge de petits barrancs a on el terra argilós, ben compactat al llarg de mil·lennis, ha format petits tallats horitzontals. És el país del còlit negre, una espècie en regressió al Nord-est peninsular degut a la davallada del sobre-pastoratge en moltes zones i la conseqüent recuperació de la vegetació.
Aquí, a recer del vent, vam poder fer un petit passeig. Per sobre nostre va passar un bernat pescaire, amb evidents dificultats per mantenir el rumb… Aquí també vam veure tallarol capnegre amagant-se bé entre els matolls i un parell de milans negres tot just arribats de terres africanes. I llavors van aparèixer: Una parella de còlits negres que pel que sembla havien estat amagats força a prop nostre tota l’estona. Al llarg dels següents minuts es van anar movent pel vessant costerut, oferint molt bones observacions a tots els participants del tour. La parella anava aturant-se al llarg del tallat horitzontal però en un moment determinat un mascle de còlit ros va arribar a la zona, provocant un conflicte en el que els còlit negres no van parar fins a fer fora del seu territori l’intrús.
Molt contents amb aquestes observacions vam fer cap al nostre allotjament per poder tenir una mica de descans abans de sopar, tot pregant per una metereologia més benèvola al dia següent.
Perdiu roja (Alectoris rufa). Imatge de Gerard Sauret.Còlit negre (Oenanthe leucura). Imatge de Carles OliverUna part del grup gaudint dels còlits negres. Imatge de Susana Gutiérrez.
Dia 2. Després d’un bon esmorzar ens vam dirigir a una de les zones més famoses per a observar aus estepàries del continent europeu. Només arribar ja s’entreveia que podia ser un bon dia. El vent havia calmat i un estol de xoriguers petits acompanyats de gralles de bec vermell i dos fantàstics esparvers cendrosos, torlit i xoriguers petits ens van rebre a l’entrada de la reserva. Una mica més enllà unes xurres van aixecar el vol d’un camp de conreu.
El cel s’emplenava dels cants de terreroles comunes i calàndries a mesura que el matí avançava. Ni tant sols es va caldre baixar del vehicle per observar les sempre fantàstiques aloses becudes. Només arribar amb els vehicles a la zona seleccionada vam ser rebuts per un mascle cantant uns 100 metres de les furgonetes. Aguantant la respiració, una ràpida ullada amb els prismàtics ens va descobrir un mascle cantant força a prop. Nervis dins la furgoneta. L’ocell es movia ràpid entre la vegetació. Apareixia cantant aquí i allà, però sempre escàpol. Finalment va decidir estar-se quiet en un arbust menor i d’allà estant el seu peculiar cant ens arribà diàfan. Dos altres mascles responien tot deixant anar els seus curiosos refilets des de l’altre banda de la pista forestal.
Torlit (Burhinus oedicnemus). Imatge de Gerard Sauret.Un dels dos esparvers cendrosos (Circus pygargus) que vam enganxar a la carretera. Imatge de Carles Oliver.
A poc poc, tots els participants van anar connectant amb el mascle que, tot variant de postura, s’assegurava que el seu cant arribava a tots els racons de l’estepa. La lluita amb les finestretes de la furgoneta va ser mítica, però al final van cedir i tothom que va voler va capturar una imatge més o menys bona d’un dels ocells més difícils de veure a Europa.
Contents amb aquest espectacle, gaudit per tothom als dos vehicles, poc ens podíem esperar que la funció encara ens havia de donar el seu millor acte. A l’altre banda de la pista un segon mascle cada cop cantava més a prop fins que al final va emergir de l’estepa per cantar a peu de pista! Un altre cop, arraulits dins les furgonetes, vam gaudir d’aquesta observació. En un moment determinat algú va veure un tercer exemplar, aquest movent-se davant per davant del nou mascle. Anava amb una terrerola rogenca i al cap de pocs segons teníem als tres ocells alimentant-se a escassos centímetres els uns dels altres. L’observació es va perllongar en el temps i quasi tothom va poder gaudir de les evolucions d’aquestes dues aloses becudes entre el timó.
Alosa becuda (Chersophilus duponti) mostrant el seu característic perfil. Imatge de Joan Oliver Manen.Alosa becuda (Chersophilus duponti) a la carrera. Fantàstica imatge de Gerard Sauret.Calàndria (Melanocorypha calandra). Imatge de Carles Oliver.Entre alosa becuda i alosa becuda també hi va haver temps per les terreroles rogenques (Alaudala rufescens). Imatge de Carles Oliver.
En un moment determinat el vent tornà. No fort, però contundent. I el descens en l’activitat dels ocells va ser evident. Semblava un bon moment per marxar. A uns centenars de metres d’aquell raconet, ja fora de la zona sensible, vam fer una parada per estirar les cames i comentar les observacions. Eufòria!
Era encara força d’hora així que vam decidir d’explorar un petit racó de bosc de ribera no gaire lluny de la zona a on érem. De camí vam gaudir de bitxac comú, tallareta comuna, capsigranys i algun rapinyaire.
Però no podíem deixar de fer un últim intent per gaudir de gangues, així que ens vam desviar una mica… Malauradament no vam tenir sort amb les gangues, però sí que vam gaudir força de pardals roquers, trobats, terreroles comunes i d’una esmerla que va agafar una presa tot just davant nostre però que, malauradament, no es va deixar retratar.
Sortint ja dels secans, ens vam dirigir a l’Oest de Lécera a on uns quants reductes ben conservats de bosc de ribera que s’alternen amb parcel·les conreades articulen una excel·lent zona per observar ocells. Es tracta d’un dels molts petits nuclis del pardal de passa en aquesta zona de l’Aragó! Només arribar ens van rebre els cruixidells amb el seu cant i un petit passeig ens va permetre descobrir primer un colltort que cantava a tocar del camí i després una cotxa blava que es va esmunyir entre les pastures i la vegetació de ribera. Una àguila calçada va arribar al seu arbre de cria i ens va permetre bones observacions amb el telescopi. Aquí també vam detectar alguns ocells migradors com tallarol de casquet, bitxac rogenc i mosquiter de passa.
Al cel també havia activitat i vam poder veure una parella d’àguiles marcenques quasi a tocar d’una parella d’àguiles daurades!
Capsigrany (Lanius senator). Imatge de Joan Oliver Manen.Colltort (Jynx torquilla), un bimbo per alguns dels participants. Imatge de Carles OliverUna de les múltiples àguiles daurades (Aquila chrysaetos) al llarg del cap de setmana. Imatge de Carles Oliver.
Contents amb el resultat del matí, ens vam començar a dirigir a l’Est. A Bujaraloz una curta parada va servir per observar ànecs blancs, gamba roja comuna, corriols camanegres i algunes boniques cueretes grogues.
Més a l’Est, a Candasnos vam fer una parada per gaudir del nostre picnic mentre fèiem un cop d’ull a la llacuna. Hi dominaven els ànecs coll-verds però encara hi havien alguns morells de cap roig que empal·lidien al costat dels magnífics xibecs en plomatge estival. Aquí també vam sentir rascló, teixidor i balquer mentre que un falcó peregrí va aparèixer del no res per fer una passada només a l’abast d’aquests magnífics animals.
Acabat el picnic vam haver d’enfrontar-nos a l’ocell més difícil de tot el cap de setmana: la tallareta cuallarga! Sí, heu llegit bé!
Les tallaretes cuallargues poden ser una mica incòmodes de veure, però les que vam visitar comptaven amb un aliat d’allò més inesperat: Un pal metàl·lic!
I així és que mentre intentàvem que els participants es concentressin a trobar una de les 6 tallaretes cuallargues que rondaven pel bonic vessant cobert de brolla davant del qual ens havíem aturat, la majoria dels participants es deixaven emmirallar per les maniobres d’un modest pal metàl·lic de poc més de mig metre a la base del vessant. Pocs moments més frustrants deuen haver passat aquelles tallaretes que aquell dia, quan vint persones es van aturar a la carretera per mirar un modest pal metàl·lic.
Al poc temps tota la conversa girava al voltant del pal. Que si a l’esquerra, que si a la dreta, amunt, avall, a dins… Mentrestant, les tallaretes anaven fent, alienes a l’excitació que el pal semblava provocar. Però a poc a poc tothom va anar veient-les mentre s’alimentaven a les ginestes. I no patiu, perquè podem anunciar amb orgull que el pal que ens va destorbar tant ja no existeix, i ja no entorpirà mai més cap grup d’intrèpids ornitòlegs!
Val a dir que els vessants en qüestió també acollien abellerols, cogullades fosques i perdius roges.
Cuereta groga (Motacilla flava). Imatge de Joan Oliver Manen.En aquesta sortida vam gaudir dels primers abellerols (Merops apiaster) de la temporada. Imatge de Gerard Sauret.Abellerols al sol. Imatge de Joan Oliver Manen.Tallarol trencamates (Curruca conspicillata) mascle. Imatge de Carles Oliver.
Després d’aquesta èpica batalla vam decidir fer una segona visita a una zona per a tallarol trencamates, ja que el dia anterior no l’havien vist bé al segon vehicle. Sense masses problemes vam poder veure un bon grapat en un espai de terreny ben petit mentre les terreroles rogenques cantaven al nostre voltant.
D’aquí només teníem temps ja per a una última parada, que va ser per fer una visita a un duc al seu amagatall diürn i gaudir d’una bona observació amb els telescopis. Un cop acabats, vam encetar el trasllat final fins a Barcelona després d’acomiadar-nos dels participants que marxaven en direcció a Tarragona.
En definitiva, va ser un OrnitoRepte força reeixit malgrat el temps. I molt, molt divertit!
Llistat d’espècies observades
Ànec blanc (Tadorna tadorna)
Ànec coll-verd (Anas platythynchos)
Xarxet comú (Anas crecca)
Morell de cap roig (Aythya ferina)
Xibec (Netta rufina)
Cabussó emplomallat (Podiceps cristatus)
Cabusset (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
Bernat pescaire (Ardea cinerea)
Esplugabous (Bubulcus ibis)
Cigonya blanca (Ciconia ciconia)
Voltor comú (Gyps fulvus)
Aufrany (Neophron percnopterus)
Àguila marcenca (Circaerus gallicus)
Àguila calçada (Aquila pennata)
Àguila daurada (Aquila chrysaetos)
Milà negre (Milvus migrans)
Milà reial (Milvus milvus)
Esparver cendrós (Circus pygargus)
Arpella comuna (Circus aeruginosus)
Aligot comú (Buteo buteo)
Xoriguer comú (Falco tinnunculus)
Xoriguer petit (Falco naumanii)
Esmerla (Falco columbarius)
Falcó peregrí (Falco peregrinus)
Perdiu roja (Alectoris rufa)
Rascló eurasiàtic (Rallus aquaticus) — només sentit
Polla d’aigua (Gallinula chloropus)
Fotja eurasiàtica (Fulica atra)
Pioc salvatge (Otis tarda)
Cames llargues (Himantopus himantopus)
Torlit (Burhinus oedicnemus)
Corriol camanegre (Charadrius alexandrinus)
Gamba roja comuna (Tringa totanus)
Gavina riallera (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
Gavià argentat (Larus michahellis)
Colom roquer (Columba livia)
Tudó (Columba palumbus)
Tòrtora turca (Streptopelia decaocto)
Xurra (Pterocles orientalis)
Falciot negre (Apus apus)
Ballester (Apus melba)
Colltort eurasiàtic (Jynx torquilla)
Puput (Upupa epops)
Abellerol comú (Merops apiaster)
Terrerola comuna (Calandrella brachydactyla)
Terrerola fosca (Alaudala rufescens)
Cogullada comuna (Galerida cristata)
Cogullada fosca (Galerida theklae)
Calàndria (Melanocorypha calandra)
Alosa becuda (Chersophilus duponti)
Roquerol (Ptyonoprogne rupestris)
Oreneta comuna (Hirundo rustica)
Oreneta cuablanca (Delichon urbicum)
Oreneta de ribera (Riparia riparia)
Trobat (Anthus campestris)
Cuereta blanca (Motacilla alba)
Cuereta groga (Motacilla flava)
Rossinyol comú (Luscinia megarhynchos)
Cotxa blava (Luscinia svecica)
Bitxac rogenc (Saxicola rubetra)
Còlit gris (Oenanthe oenanthe)
Còlit ros (Oenanthe hispanica)
Còlit negre (Oenanthe leucura)
Griva (Turdus viscivorus)
Merla comuna (Turdus merula)
Tallarol de casquet (Sylvia atricapilla)
Tallarol capnegre (Curruca melanocephala)
Tallareta cuallarga (Curruca undata)
Tallarol trencamates (Curruca conspicillata)
Tallareta comuna (Curruca communis)
Balquer (Acrocephalus arundinaceus) — només sentit
Overview: 10th issue of our tour exploring Morocco in early spring. Arranged with the group months in advance, the tour was for 1 day in order to look for Dupont’s Lark. Our group enjoyed very stable weather all the tour long, with only an afternoon of strong wind that made difficult to find many birds. Temperatures were mild when not cool, making the birdwatching very pleasant during almost all the days. The severe drought affecting the whole Morocco had, anyway, a strong impact in our tour since most of the wetlands visited during the trip were dry or had a very low level of water. The poor water management along with the severe droughts and the over exploted subsoil waters put in a high risk the survival of most of the wetlands in this part of the world. However, we got excellent numbers of steppe birds during the trip, with more Thick-billed & Desert Larks than in any previous tour! Numbers of migratory birds were acceptable and far better than the tour in 2022, when we had almost none of them for 10 days. The excellent views on Dupont’s Lark rank high in the memories of the trip, along with the very enjoyable sights in most desert specialists.
Day 1. After a coordinated arrival to our accommodation in Marrakech, the whole group met for breakfast early in the morning. After enjoying the coffee, tea and some fruits and eggs, we left to explore the Atlas mountains. It was a very sunny day and warm day in Marrakech and before leaving we enjoyed a stop to see the hundreds of Pallid Swifts around, the fast wing beats of the Little Swifts and some urban birds including Eurasian Blackbird, Common Woodpigeon and Red-rumped Swallow.
After negotiating the traffic in Marrakech, a short transfer led us to the first proper stop of the trip. There, a line of mature trees are the perfect nesting habitat for Woodpeckers. A pair of minutes after the group was enjoying the firsts African Blue Tits of the tour, that were to join an interesting selection of birds seen during the transfer including Cetti’s Warbler, Moroccan & Grey Wagtails, African Chaffinches, European Serins, White Wagtails and Lesser Kestrels. A short walk along the tree line produced also Great Tit, Blackcaps and Little Swifts and soon after a Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker flew off from the trees to feed in the almond orchads around. During the next 15 minutes the group enjoyed non-stop views on the female woodpecker while looking for ants in the red soil. The only one Eurasian Wren of trip was heard around, and a lovely Atlas Great Spotted Woodpecker performed really well for us. Before going back to the van, a Short-toed Treecreeper appeared as well. The form living in Morocco, under the mauretanica race, is always a very interesting bird to see, as it likely to be split and be a species in its own. Other birds here included Song Thrush, Grey Heron and the very first Short-toed Snake Eagle of the tour!
Back to the road, we started the transfer up to the top of the Atlas. Along the way we had a lovely stop to enjoy another Maghreb endemic, the Tristam’s Warbler. Scanning a lovely slope full of junipers, it didn’t take us long to locate some of them, and after some time waiting one male came down the slope and showed really well. Here we also got the very first of many Moussier’s Redstarts and lovely views on Rock Buntings plus a very distant Booted Eagle.
Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni) in our way up to the Atlas. Image by tour participant Mark Newsome.Levaillant’s Woodpecker (Picus vaillantii), the only endemic woodpecker in Northern Africa. Image by tour leader Carles OliverAfrican Blue Tit (Cyanistes teneriffeae) favours decideous trees. Image by Carles OliverShort-toed Treecreeper (Certhia brachydactyla), the local race is a good candidate to become a full species. Image by Carles OliverTristam’s Warbler (Curruca deserticola), a specialist of mountain scrublands in the Atlas. Image by Carles Oliver
As we were winning altitude, the landscape changed from the junipers to the Spanish Firs first and then to the high mountain grasslands. There, it was already possible to enjoy large flocks of both Alpine & Red-billed Choughs, and the whole Oukaïmeden was flooded with their characteristic calls. Once parked, a stroll aorund produced several Black Redstarts, Common Rock Sparrows and a pair of Grey Wagtails. The area was really full of locals that have come up in the mountains to enjoy the snow, and we had to go a bit away from them to contact with a first flock of African Crimson-winged Finches! First we found 5, then 7, 11, 15 and so on!! Perched in the buildings and feeding on the ground, this endemics bird to the Atlas provided the group with great views!
Happy with this great views we went for dinner in a restaurant nearby, and better views on both Choughs were done while waited to be served. After lunch, a second stroll around produced not only great views on Mistle Thrush, Thekla Lark, Rock Sparrow and obliging Atlas Horned Larks but also a rather unexpected male Seebohm’s Wheatear (also refered as Atlas Wheatear) feeding in the grasslands! This bird was really celebrated in the group, that was well aware that the fenology of the species (arriving to the Atlas by the end of March after spending the winter in the Southern part of the Sahel) makes the species often difficult to find in this tour.
Atlas Wheatear (Oenanthe seebohmi), another specialty living in the the Atlas grasslands. Image by Mark Newsome.Firecrest (Regulus ignicapilla) on Spanish Fir showing out its name! Image by Mark Newsome.Red-billed Chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax), a common bird around Oukaïmeden. Image by Carles OliverThe atlas race of Horned Lark (Eremophila alpestris) is only living in the Atlas high mountain grasslands. Image by Carles OliverAfrican Crimson-winged Finch (Rhodopechys alienus), another Atlas endemic. Image by Carles OliverHere showing the crimson wings. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 2. The day started with a pre dawn walk in the streets of Marrakech. Our goal was to locate the endemic Maghreb Owl, that is having a small population in different gardens of the city. We couldn’t be more lucky when, after only 15 minutes of search, our efforts were granted with a wonderful Maghreb Owl sitting in a small tree! During the next minutes, we all enjoyed great views on it before it flew off, back to the gardens!
After breakfast, transfer to Agadir. Once leaving behind the massive plains around Marrakech, we had a stop near the coast immediately South of Essaouira to enjoy the birds living in the famous Argan trees, a evergreen species that produces a really appreciated seed used in cosmetic industries, lotions and so.
Maghreb Owl (Strix mauretanica) was one of the most celebrated birds of the trip! Image by Carles Oliver
The day was warm but the Atlantic never stop to send fog inland, and during most of the day the ambient was a bit misty. Soon after stopping we had Western Orphean Warblers singing and displaying around, some of them being really obliging! African Chaffinches were common there and with some patience we also found Western Bonelli’s Warbler, European Bee-eater, Common Redstart and Woodchat Shrike. Neil enjoyed the stop so much that decided to stay a bit longer than expected… Nothing serious, only a rather long stroll
From here our next stop was to explore the sandy plains around one largest colony of Northern Bald Ibis. There we has an interesting set of species including some good flocks of Greater Short-toed Larks, Spectacled Warbler, Thekla Lark and a distant Barbary Falcon that was enjoying a prey on the ground. A bit of sea watching was made as we were waiting for the Ibises to appear, adding Audouin’s Gull and Lesser Black-backed Gull to our list. There, Mark was lucky enough to have 1 Atlantic Puffin flying North! Some Northern Bald Ibises were flying up and down but always distant.
After about one hour waiting in the area, we finally were rewarded with a nice flock of 8 Northern Bald Ibis landing in the plains only 200 metres away from us. Our group enjoyed great views on them while they were preening and feeding a bit around. Excellent views that were really celebrated by the group. When leaving, we got a flock of migrating Wheatears feeding next to the road: 1 Western Black-eared male, 1 Seebohm’s male, and 2 Northern Wheatears!
After some lunch rest, we drove the short distance to the small Tamri Estuary, were we had the firsts Ruddy Shelducks of the trip along with 20+ Kentish Plovers, Moroccan Wagtail, Audouin’s Gulls and several Western Yellow Wagtail plus Ringed Plovers, Subalpine Warblers, Red-rumped Swallows, Grey Heron, Little Ringed Plovers, 4 Ruffs and 20+ Northern Bald Ibis in flight!
Western Orphean Warbler (Curruca hortensis) favours orchads and tall, sparse maquis. Image by Carles OliverNorthern Bald Ibises (Geronthicus eremita) taking care of their plomage. Image by Carles OliverMaghreb Magpie (Pica mauretanica), a common endemic along the Moroccan Atlantic coast. Image by Carles Oliver
Going South, we negotiated the always challenging traffic in Agadir to explore the Souss Estuary, one of the best brackish wetlands in this part of Morocco. Here we had a good selection of waders but always with little numbers if compared with previous years. Some noted species included Eurasian Whimbrel, Black-winged Stilts, Osprey, Grey Plovers, Ringed & Kentish Plovers, Common Redshanks, Greenshanks, both Black-tailed & Bar-tailed Godwits, Whimbrel, 6 Red Knots as well as Pied Avocets and Oystercatchers. Here the group also enjoyed close views on the beautiful Maghreb Magpies and flocks of tern including several Sandwich Terns and very vocal Gull-billed Terns along with a solitary Common Tern.
From here we drove a last transfer to our accommodation in the Souss-Massa National Park, where we had a fly over Stone Curlew some miles before arriving to our hotel.
Day 3. The cloudy morning provided us with a very comfortable temperature. This day was devoted to explore the Massa River and nearby areas. After breakfast, we only had to walk a few meters to contact with the first of many Black-crowned Tchagras, wonderful bird that was calling and showing out nearby our van. A short drive of only 5 minutes allowed the group to explore a pair of corners with excellent birding. The numbers of migratory warblers were good all along the river, and in the next 90 minutes we got a good array of warblers including Sardinian, Western Subalpine, Western Orphean, Cetti’s, Zitting Cisticola, Iberian Chiffchaff, Willow Warbler, Western Bonelli’s plus first views on Western Olivaceous Warbler singing and calling in the tamarisks. Moussier’s Redstarts were a common view around while the bush were full of migratory warblers. Flocks of Spanish Sparrows were flying around, and some provided close views along with really obliging Cirl Buntings, African Chaffinches and European Stonechats. Another wonderful spot was a Little Owl perched low in a small bush.
Black-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra senegalensis) holds good densities along the Massa River. Image by Carles OliverSardinian Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala), a common view around Marrakech and the Atlantic coast. Image by Mark Newsome.Moussier’s Redstart (Phoenicurus moussieri), one of the most atractive birds in the area. Image by Carles OliverThe African Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs africana) is a very distinctive form, and an eternal candidate to become a full species. Image by Carles Oliver
Up in the air there were small flocks of Little Swifts but also Common & Pallid Swifts while some European Bee-eaters were flying around. In the ponds, the waterfowl was scarce due to the low level of water, but our first stops still produced Common Kingfisher, Glossy Ibis, a lovely Purple Heron and a roosting flock of Night Herons. Tree Pipits, Common Quail and Melodious Warbler were all heard, and we got some views in all of them, out of the Quail.. In one of this ponds, we had the first Brown-throated Martin of the day, all the whole group enjoyed close views on this tiny swallow while hunting insects around. This is a decreasing species in Morocco, currently with only a few colonies left, mainly in the wetlands along the Atlantic coast.
The very last pond before lunch produced not only warblers also Eurasian Teals, Wood & Green Sandpipers and Little Ringed Plovers.
After lunch the clouds disapeared and the lovely blue sky was back. We went to explore the Massa River mouth. En route, we had Black-winged Kite & Western Marsh Harrier + Tawny Pipit and Greater Short-toed Larks. Once in the area, we were surprised by the few birdlife there. Here we only had distant views Eurasian Spoonbills, Ruddy Shelducks, Northern Shovelers, Kentish Plovers, Greenshanks while the scrublands around had a few migratory warblers and small floks of Common Linnets and European Serins.
Back to our vehicles, the rest of the afternoon was devoted to sea watching in nearby coastal cliffs. Despite the rather misty ambient and the hard light with the sun placed above the sea we got a fine selection of sea birds including several Arctic Skuas moving South (!) as well as small numbers of Balearic, Cory’s & Manx Shearwaters mainly moving North. Large flocks of Oystercatchers were migrating along the coast and, as the afternoon went on, the group was able to catch up with some other sea birds including Pomarine & Great Skuas and some Razorbills, all of them moving back North to their nesting grounds in Europe.
Day 4. This day we left Agadir in a very cloudy ambient that was to be with us until we crossed the Anti Atlas. Beyond there we enjoyed the sun in the Ouarzazate basin, but also the very windy conditions. A first stop was done en route to enjoy a pair of Black-winged Kites by the road. Our group was lucky enough to enjoy some mating, with the mail very nervous and flying all the time from a prominent perch to the female and back. Both individuals were really excited, even with some calls in a species that is really silent in average. The whole scene was ideal to capture some shots of the bird, and it was one of the best raptor experiences along the trip in a country that is having every time less and less birds of prey in its skies due to direct prosecution.
Along with the Black-winged Kites, we also enjoyed here some Crested Larks but also flocks of Spanish Sparrows, Eurasian Blackcaps, Corn Bunting and another singing Melodious Warbler that only gave us partial views..
Western Bonelli’s Warbler (Phylloscopus bonelli), a common migratory bird. Image by Carles OliverA mating pair of Black-winged Kites (Elanus caeruleus) was a nice surprise during one of the transfers. Image by Carles Oliver Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus) ready to land. Image by Carles OliverDesert Larks (Ammomanes deserti) were this year as common as ever. Image by Carles Oliver
Back in the road we had a pair of additional stops in the road to enjoy the firsts of many Trumpeter Finches and Desert Larks before arriving to the large barrage immediately South of Ouarzazate. There, we spent a pair of really productive hours before the final drive to Boulmane du Dades, but even before arriving to the wetland, in a stop to buy some cold drinks in Ouarzazate we had a first flock of hundreds of Black Kites with several Booted & Short-toed Eagles moving along with them! It was great to see all these birds moving above the city centre as they were flying South to look for some sheltered place to spend the night around the dump.
The dump around Ouarzazate covers a large area, has several access points, and to explore it is always challenging. Just arriving we founds a flock of 8 Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters feeding by the access road, and their flights and calls delighted the group for quite long. In that same place, the firsts Maghreb Larks of the trip showed up, providing the group with great views with its typical tame behaviour. Sand Martin, Western Black-eared Wheatear, Desert Lark, Willow Warbler and European Bee-eater were all noted as we moved on and lovely migratory flock of Kentish Plovers resting in the desert delighted us with excellent views before we could reach the proper place to scan for waterfowl. Yes, a small detour was necessary to arrive, and some tamarisks still remember the underneath of our van, but we arrived!
Unfortunately was windy, and the waterfowl was inside the reedbeds. Meadow Pipit, Great Crested Grebe, Yellow Wagtail and Eurasian Coots were noted. At least 2 Montagu’s Harrier, including one male, were seen flying above the reeds along with several Marsh Harriers. It was a bit disappointing but after some wait, a Marsh Harrier flew really low over the reeds and a massive flock of 60+ Marbled Teals appeared in the sky, flying along the reeds and giving good scope looks to the group! After such a wonderful sight, we waited some more time, and smaller flocks of Marbled Teals were again seen moving up and down, but after some time it was clear that we were not going to have a better/closer view on the birds, so we decided to leave towards our accommodation for an evening meal and some rest.
Booted Eagle (Aquila pennata) over Ouarzazate. Image by Mark Newsome.Blue-cheecked Bee-eater (Merops persicus), a wonderful beauty! Image by Mark Newsome.Maghreb Larks (Galerida macrorhyncha) are common in farmlands around the desert like ambients. Image by Carles OliverKentish Plovers (Charadrius alexandrinus) chose the desert to do a break on their migration. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 5. A bit windy but sunny day in the endless plains inmediatly South of Boulmane du Dades. This day we were concentrated in locating the many goodies living in the wonderful steppe lands East and South from Boulmane du Dades.
The morning was a bit windy but the firsts stops exploring the steppe lands produced soon good birds including Thekla’s & Greater Short-toed Larks, the first Desert Wheatears of the tour along with the much scarcer Red-rumped Wheatear and the always wonderful Temminck’s Lark. A short walk around the rubbish dump produced one of the main targets of the day, 3 wonderful Thick-billed Larks that were feeding around along with Temminck’s. We could enjoy at least two of them for quite long, and the group was really delighted to enjoy such a great birding, even if the habitat around was not as pristine as one could expect, and definately more smelly than an average patch of steppe.. Despite the poor environment, here we also had White & Western Yellow Wagtails, Little Ringed Plover and Meadow & Tawny Pipits.
From here had a pair more of stops where we had Atlas Buzzard (the status of the cirtensis form, formerly treated as a Long-legged Buzzard race, is under discussion), several Black Kites, Marsh Harriers and 1 Montagu’s Harrier. We also enjoyed really close views on Temminck’s Larks and obliging Desert Wheatears.
The temperature raised up, and our jackets were a bit less essential. Beyond the plain, a number of small canyons lead to the mountainous areas South of the Draa River. A stop in one of the many villages there produced close and long views on Trumpeter Finches along with European Serins, Linnets and Algerian Shrike.
Back to the plains, we went to some farm lands. This is a typical place for Larks to concentrate but this time the area looked like empty. Still, a short walk around produced 3 wonderful Thick-billed Larks feeding around. The trees around had also Woodchat Shrike, Tree Pipit, Western Bonelli’s Warbler, Common Whitethroat and Western Subalpine Warbler. From here, a short drive led us to a large, open plain in the middle of the steppes. This is a typical place for Cream-coloured Coursers, and soon we located the first of them. After some cautious approach we all enjoyed wonderful views on them, and finally we counted a minimum of 12 moving around them. When leaving, a pair of Black-bellied Sandgrouses showed up in front of us, and we had enough time to go out and enjoy lovely scope views on both of them!
Female Red-rumped Wheatear (Oenanthe moesta). Image by Carles OliverNothing can compare to the delicate facial & breast pattern on Temminck’s Larks (Eremophila bilopha). Image by Carles OliverEven with all that rubbish, Thick-billed Lark (Ramphocorys clotbei) keeps being wonderful! Image by Carles OliverOur secret corner worked once more, and this time provided our group with great views on Thick-billed Larks! Image by Carles OliverCream-coloured Coursers (Cursorior cursor) were just arriving to their nesting grounds. Image by Carles OliverIt took us some time to locate the female Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis)! Image by Carles Oliver
Back to our accommodation, we enjoyed a nice lunch and some rest before going to explore a different location. The ondulations around Boulmane produces a number of canyons and we spent some time exploring of them. It didn’t take long before we got the firsts specialties, and Desert Wheatears, Trumpeter Finches and Desert Larks showed really well before enjoying a nice pair of the very scarce and elusive Maghreb Wheatear while moving in the barren slope. This is another Maghreb endemic, only known form a thin stripe crossing Morocco, Algeria & Tunisia and formerly considered conspecific with Mourning Wheatear, a Levant specialty. Atlas Buzzard and Common Kestrels were also noted here, and we also had some views on a roosting Pharaon Eagle Owl that, unfortunately, was really deep inside a hole and never came out enough to provide the group with a full view.
The last stop of the day was quite a change of ambient. Driving up the very scenic Gorge du Dades, with its many wonderful Kashbahs and colourful dressed women, we arrived to a small cliff. Just arrived we had a fast and interesting bird spectacle in front us: 2 Peregrine Falcons being moved by a much smaller, longer tailed, Barbary Falcon! The Peregrines looked like the owners of the cliff at the moment, as we even saw the pair passing food to each other. The Barbary Falcon, higher at all times, disappeared beyond the cliff. We waited for some time to have better views on the Barbary Falcon, and a showy Blue Rock Thrush and some Booted Eagles moving up the valley helped us to have a good entertainment. The Barbary Falcon showed a pair of times more in the sky, and we decided to end the afternoon soon enough to have some rest in the accommodation before dinner.
Spinny-tailed Lizzard (Uromastyx acanthinura). Image by Carles Oliver
Day 6. A transtional day between the high plateaus around Boulmane du Dades and the sandy deserts around Merzouga. The morning was sunny but fresh, with a cold air coming down from the Atlas that made our first stop really comfortable. The first stop in the morning was to look for the rather scarce Saharan Scrub Warbler, an endemic form of the Levant Scrub Warbler living in the sparse bushlands along wadis but also up in the slopes in the Northern slope of the Atlas mountains.
Our short walk produced almost immediately the first Bar-tailed Larks of the trip as well as confiding Mediterranean Short-toed Larks. Walking along the wadi we had a good set of the typical species living in this kind of habitats including Spectacled Warbler, Trumpeter Finches and Deser Wheatear plus migratory species such as Western Subalpine Warbler and Northern Wheatear. After a good while scanning the area we were starting to think about going somewhere else when Rob found 2 Scrub Warblers feeding at close range from us.
The birds, as typical on them, where feeding really low in the base of the small scrubs, making very difficult to see them for longer than a pair of seconds. Jumping from bush to bush, the Scrub Warblers moved really fast along the wadi, covering a lot of ground, flying from bush to bush but also “running” in the sand like tiny Babblers and typically standing by the base of a bush, tail-ups, before disappearing inside the grass.
After enjoying the Scrub Warblers for 20 minutes we started to come to the van, but we still had a pair of sights: First, a Cream-coloured Courser that flew over us while calling and secondly, a pair of Bar-tailed Larks showing quite close, as tame as ever.
Saharan Scrub Warbler (Scotocerca inquieta saharae) frozen in a jump. A great shot by Mark Newsome.Trumpeter Finch (Bucanetes githagineus) feeding on seeds. Image by Mark Newsome.Desert Wheatear males (Oenanthe deserti) can be really tame. Image by Carles Oliver
From here we drove into a close restaurant and enjoy some shade. After lunch, we covered the short distance to our next accommodation with a number of stops in the way. Desert Grey Shrike was added to our list, as well as Brown-necked Raven. A longer stop to explore another wadi produced good views on the common list of migratory species including Willow, Western Subalpine & Western Bonelli’s Warblers, but also Black-eared Wheatear & Western Orphean Warbler.
The last stop of the day was devoted to the typical habitat of Greater Hoopoe Lark, and it didn’t take long before having the first sight for trip of this really appreciated species: 2 individuals, one of them singing and displaying in flight. A great sight to end another wonderful day!
Day 7. This day was devoted to explore the desert around Merzouga. This is a quite well known place for the many desert specialties living around. It was a sunny and pleasant day all through, with a fresh brise during most of the day.
Our first stop was around a water hole where we did stop to look for Sandgrouses coming to drink water from several kilometers away. We didn’t have to wait long since even before our arrival some flocks of Crowned Sandgrouses were already on the ground, waiting for the best moment to approach the water. After some waiting, we id enjoy several flocks of both Crowned and Spotted Sandgrouses coming to the plain around the small pond, and soon their calls and wing beats filled up the ambient. This was a wonderful moment, and all the tour participants were really happy to see 80+ Crowned & 40+ Spotted Sandgrouses coming to drink water! We left the area with still more Sandgrouses coming to drink water, but we had to move to our next stop, a nomadic camp nearby where a pair of Desert Sparrow was nesting.
It was time for us to enjoy some tea, and our patience in the camp was rewarded with amazing views on a Desert Sparrow male that was feeding right the tents! The bird was really tame and allowed excellent images. Here, a Greater Hoopoe Lark also appeared, and provided the group with the best views on this species along the trip. White-crowned Black Wheatear, Common Redstart and Brown-necked Raven were also noted here.
Leaving this sandy patch of the desert, we drove North into a large wady where a nomad was waiting for us. His expertise was needed to find the next target of the trip, and after a short walk in the wady he brought directly to one Egyptian Nightjar that was roosting in the wadi. Respecting a good distance from the bird, we all enjoyed a wonderful view in this magnificent bird! A further walk around the dunes was also productive and Greater Hoopoe Larks and Desert Wheatears showed well, but the very best of the walk was to find a nice African Desert Warbler doing its way around the sparse vegetation of the wadi! This is again a desert specialist, and one of the most tricky birds to find in Morocco!
Crowned Sandgrouses (Pterocles coronata) around a water hole. Image by tour leader Carles OliverSpotted Sandgrouses (Pterocles senegallus) have been outnumbered by Crowneds in recent years. Image by Carles OliverWhite-crowned Wheatears (Oenanthe leucopygia) are urban birds in the desert. Image by Carles OliverDesert Sparrow (Passer ) favoured us with really close views. Image by Mark NewsomeGreater Hoopoe Lark (Alaemon alaudipes), the commoner lark around Merzouga. Image by Carles OliverEgyptian Nightjar (Caprimulgus aegyptiacus). Image by Carles OliverAfrican Desert Warbler (Curruca deserti) inhabits along the wadi scrublands. Image by Carles Oliver
Happy after such a great views we went for some rest and lunch in a close accommodation. But in our way we had to do another stop: During the morning we had several flocks of Black Kites migrating North over the desert along with some Western Marsh Harriers, but one of these flocks was joined by a lovely Egyptian Vulture, the only one for the trip!
Our picnic was really tasty and, walking around the accommodation we enjoy it not only Western Subalpine Warblers & other common migratory birds but also Woodchat Shrike, Spanish Sparrow, Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and a really tame Eastern Olivaceous Warbler (Iduna pallida reiseri) that posed really well for all the tour participants!
After lunch we tried to improve our rather scarce list of raptors but we were unlucky and the very last stop of the day was devoted to explore a small crop area with some water. Here we had several Western Yellow Wagtails of different races (nominal, Spanish, Italian & British) but also Maghreb Larks, Eurasian Crag Martin, Red-rumped Swallow, Little Ringed Plover, Wood Sandpiper, Northern Grey Shrike, Meadow Pipit, Greater Short-toed Lark and Ruddy Shelduck to name a few!
Western Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla flava). Image by Mark NewsomeEastern Olivaceous Warbler (Iduna pallida reiseri), often refered as Saharan Olivaceous Warbler. Image by Mark Newsome.Ruddy Shelducks (Tadorna ferruginea) nest in good numbers in paddy fields. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 8. Due to the long drought and the terrible water management in the areas, the once famous and extremelly famous Merzouga lake is now gone. With the lake gone, this morning we explored a pair of corners in search of a good migratory action.
Firstly we explored the grounds of a nearby hotel, where we got more common migratory birds plus Western Orphean Warbler, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Common Whitethroat, European Bee-eater and Woodchat Shrike. From here we drove the short distance to the major palm grove in the area, where we had double figures of Common Whitethroat and Willow Warblers while Garden Warbler, European Turtle Dove and Bluethroat were added to the list. Here we enjoyed also great views on a family group of Fulvous Babbler, including an aberrant individual! This species, anyway, was already seen for some of the tour participants in a pre-dawn walk around our accommodation and shortly the day before in the desert!
In the afternoon the group agreed to do a good exploration some tens of kilometers South from Merzouga. This area, not really explored by most birdwatchers, provided us with a quite pristine landscapes, as it once was Merzouga, along with excellent numbers of Desert, Bar-tailed & Greater Hoopoe Larks. Here Carmine found a lovely flock of 8 Crowned Sandgrouses that provided the group with gorgeous views and good photo chances!
Western Subalpine Warbler (Curruca iberiae), the commnest bush warbler in migration in Morocco. Image by Mark Newsome.This year there were excellent numbers of Fulvous Babblers (Turdoides fulva) around Merzouga. Image by Mark NewsomeMigratory Locust (Locusta migratoria). Image by Mark NewsomeWoodchat Shrike (Lanius senator) hunting from a palm shade. Image by Carles OliverEuropean Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur), a jewel declining all around the continent. Image by Carles OliverBar-tailed Lark (Ammomanes cinctura) was extremelly common South of Merzouga. Image by Carles OliverCrowned Sandgrouse shows similar habits to those seen from Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouses. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 9. Transition day from Merzouga to the endless steppe land around Saïda, home of the shy and always challenging Dupont’s Lark! Before leaving the desert, we had a pair of stops. After breakfast we covered a short distance to explore the grounds of another accommodation. Here we didn’t have a lot of time as the owners were not happy with our visit and we were invited to immediatly leave the gardens. A real pity since within 5 minutes we already had enjoyed some good sights including obliging Common Nightingale, Eurasian Hoopoe and Dylan found the 1st Eurasian Wryneck of the trip! Unfortunately it was no chance to try a dialogue with the owners and we left what can be considered as the less welcoming ksar in Southern Morocco!
Around Erfoud we still have a last stop before our long drive North. Our search of a proper pond finally was successful and we found a small pond (we could not consider it as a “proper” one) where we got the only 3 Sedge Warblers of trip along with Eurasian Reed Warbler, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Western Bonelli’s Warbler, Bluethroat and, nearby, another Wryneck.
After some driving a lunch stop, we arrive to Zaïda in a windy afternoon. Birding was extremelly poor and we only got some distant Temminck’s Larks, a pair of Desert Wheatears and 1 Black-eared Wheatear. But swords were up for the next morning and try to find the famous “ghost bird”!
Moroccan Wagtail (Motacilla subpersonata), another Maghreb endemic. Image by Carles OliverMale Bluethroat (Luscinia svecica) hiding in dry tamarisks. Image by Carles OliverRecord shot of an Eurasian Wryneck (Jynx torquilla) in the desert dunes. Image by Carles OliverDesert Wheatear (Onenanthe deserti). Image by Mark Newsome.
Day 10. After a nice breakfast we covered the few miles from our accommodation to the place where I saw Dupont’s Larks in 2022. We arrived to place, that was free of wind and had a really pleasant temperature. Bird activity was intense and it didn’t take long before we built a good list including several Mediterranean Short-toed Larks, Thekla Larks, Desert & Red-rumped Wheatears, Trumpeter Finches and a good number of Temminck’s Larks. Driving only 150 metres away from where we got the bird in 2022, Mark found a rather large lark running about 50 metres away from the van, not far from a pair of Desert Wheatears. The bird disappeared behind some bush and, after some wait, a lovely Dupont’s Lark appeared in front of us! The bird was quite far away so we all jumped out of the vans to allow everybody to get good views on the bird, that was feeding in the area for some time before climbing in a bush and sing for some time to replay a distant male. After a pair of minutes, the bird flew off, singing in flight, and flying a long distance away, disappearing beyond the small ondulations of the terrain!
All the tour participants were really excited as the confidence about finding this very difficult bird is always low! We the best was still to come. Decided to get better views, we moved a bit away to check another corner. No birds were listened there so we decided to come back to the area where we first seen the Dupont’s Lark. In the way, 2 Cream-coloured Coursers, Thick-billed Larks & some Black-bellied Sandgrouses were all seen! Back to place we were enjoying some Mediterranean Short-toed Larks displaying ten metres away from the van when a gorgeous Dupont’s Lark just appeared only a few metres to our left! The bird was really relaxed and was feeding around the tussocks of grass. The excitement inside the vehicles was huge, hundreds of images were taken and most of the tour participants decided to go out to enjoy this incredible sight from even closer (but never leaving the road!).
Common Whitethroat (Curruca communis) from our pre-dawn walk. Image by tour leader Sergi Sales.Black-bellied Sandgrouses (Pterocles orientalis) around Saïda. Image by Mark Newsome.Dupont’s Lark (Chersophilus duponti) offered unforgettable views to all the tour participants! Image by Carles Oliver Mediterranean Short-toed Lark (Alaudala rufescens) displaying. Image by Carles Oliver
Extremelly happy after such a great views, we started the long transfer to Ouarzazate, where we had the last overnight of the tour. In the way, we still have time to stop and enjoy amazing views on a hatching female Lanner Falcon plus some other goodies including Fat Sand Rat, Desert Larks, Atlas Buzzard and a female Maghreb Wheatear.
At dust, a short stop in a river produced some nice views on Grey Wagtail, Booted Eagle and Cetti’s Warbler before a Barbary Falcon appeared in a fast raid to try to catch one of the Cattle Egrets around. A really nice way to end the day!
The impressive broken terrain South of Boulmane du Dades offers good habitat to a variety of species. Image by Carles Oliver
Day 11. Last day of this tour, one day longer than usual to include Dupont’s Lark in the itinerary. Before driving back to Marrakech by crossing the Atlas, we decided to have another go to the massive barrage South of Boulmane du Dades. This time the weather was clearly better, a calm, sunny and promising morning that was not really productive. A series of stops in the massive dump produced good views on migratory Black Storks and large flocks of Black Kites but little numbers of ducks in the lake.
But, when leaving one of the spots, Carmine found a pair of gorgeous Thick-billed Larks right next to the van that displayed long for us! Leaving the dump behind us, we still enjoyed close views on Little Ringed Plover by the road, and the very last birding stop still produced Little Swift, Common Nightingale, Melodious Warbler, Black-eared Wheatear and a singing Wryneck before we crossed the Atlas back to Marrakech, where we did arrive at mid afternoon, in time for everybody to reach their flights.
Black Kites (Milvus migrans) leaving their roosting place to cross the Atlas. Image by Carles OliverThe last day we got quite impressive views on Thick-billed Larks. Images by Carles OliverLittle Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius) in flight. Image by Mark Newsome. Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica) in a typical migratory spot. Image by Carles Oliver
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